| Puerto Princesa the Southern Gateway Puerto | | | | fishing town that lies on the north-west shores of |
| Princesa shows itself a place with all the goodies | | | | the Philippines' most westward and far flung island |
| you expect to find in a Filipino town - a legion of | | | | province, Palawan. |
| gaily painted tricycles and tricikads - mobile works | | | | El Nido, though, has come to be synonymous with |
| of art - to adorn the streets; a central market | | | | the surrounding islands. |
| brimming with colour and with humour, and | | | | Viewed from the plane - the 19 seater Dornier |
| friendly faces everywhere that show you all the | | | | that transfers you to El Nido directly from Manila - |
| time they're glad you came to see their town. | | | | the islands seem to have flaked off Palawan as |
| Yet here in Puerto Princesa there is something | | | | would crumbs from a giant slice of tart. And |
| else, a sensibility, that had the place looking very | | | | these are not your regular island specs. |
| spic and span, hospitable, as well as very, very | | | | Commanding serious respect, they soar out of |
| green. | | | | the bay as giant shafts of limestone - vertical and |
| "Yield to children crossing";"Help save our children - | | | | incredibly tall - 609 m in the case of Cadlao. |
| jail the pushers"; "I am a law abider. I support oplin | | | | Formed over 250 million years ago, they towered |
| linis (law and order)"; "I am a Palaweno, I am not | | | | then even higher than today before being eroded |
| a reckless driver", say signs along the roadside. | | | | by the rain. |
| Then you learn that Edward Hagedorn, the town's | | | | Seeing all these soaring monoliths close up, I was |
| mayor, is dedicated to civil order, personal | | | | immediately reminded of Sarawak, and the |
| security and conservation. It seems the mayor's | | | | famous limestone pinnacles that spear up through |
| strategy is paying off. The pristine forests of | | | | the mountain mist in Mulu National Park. I was not |
| Palawan had not long ago been subject to | | | | surprised to learn that Palawan in the ice age was |
| decimation through rampant illegal logging. This has | | | | part of the Eurasian Plate, and attached to |
| been completely stopped. | | | | north-east Borneo. |
| The best way to see Puerto Princesa is to walk | | | | Until the 19th century it was politically attached to |
| or take a tricikad (pedaled taxi) along Rizal | | | | Borneo as well, until the Spanish managed finally |
| Avenue. It's the main thoroughfare that runs the | | | | to wrest control of Puerto Princessa, the island's |
| length of town, from its leafy western outskirts, | | | | capital, from the Sultans of Jolo. |
| right down to the port . This was a trek that I | | | | Limestone has a way of creating fantastically |
| found myself doing as often as I could, if only to | | | | dramatic and artistic effects. In El Nido it has |
| enjoy the contrasts - country, town and port - all | | | | outdone itself. Around the various island coasts it |
| in the space of two or three km. | | | | has formed almost labyrinthine lagoons flanked by |
| Filipino ports are always irresistible destinations. | | | | those awe-inspiring walls - sometimes bare, |
| There's the promise of a fishing village - maybe | | | | sometimes clad in shrubbery and vines. There are |
| on stilts - colourful outrigger boats, and hospitality | | | | caves and giant fissures to explore, at least one |
| from the people of a type unmatched anywhere | | | | 'secret beach' which you access by snorkeling |
| in the world. The little port at Puerto Princessa | | | | through a small hole in the 'wall'; and coves that |
| had all of this and, as I was to find, just that little | | | | sport gleaming strips of sand between their |
| bit more. | | | | mottled emerald waters and forest-covered |
| Until now I had never found the pluck you need | | | | steeps. |
| to negotiate the rickety planks that serve as | | | | Ideal Resort Location Two such coves are given |
| rail-less walkways in the villages on stilts. | | | | over to resorts. These are Miniloc and Lagen. As |
| "You can go, my friend - NOT DOWN!" came the | | | | a guest at these serene and perfect places the |
| constant cry of my newly acquired companions | | | | first thing you are made aware of - aside from |
| as I tentatively poked my way along the | | | | the exuberant friendliness of the Filipino staff - is |
| walkway. I tried not to look at the muck below | | | | the environmentally conscious nature of the |
| that would gobble up entirely the fallen. | | | | properties. The management are determined that |
| Pushing on, a sign informed that this was "Camia | | | | neither their presence or yours will interfere in |
| footbridge, Matahiank Zone 2". | | | | any way with the pristine nature of what is an |
| It's astonishing what the people here have | | | | official Marine Reserve. Their philosophy is |
| managed to erect on stilts. I came upon the | | | | enshrined in 'Ten El Ni-do's", which in essence |
| Santo Nino chapel built on stilts, with a notice | | | | exhort you to take nothing but photographs and |
| promoting the Benefit Dance to be held there | | | | leave nothing but your footprints in the sand. |
| soon; there was the billiard parlour on stilts, a | | | | Everyone (one hopes) complies. Both properties |
| bingo hall and lots of little shops. I imagined, if I | | | | are equipped with sewage treatment plants and |
| looked a little more, there'd be a fire house and | | | | desalinisation plants. Both play an active role in the |
| police station too. | | | | conservation and policing of the bay. |
| The further out I walked, the skinnier the | | | | During Lagen's construction - a quite recent event |
| walkway got, until at last it was just a couple of | | | | - not one of the property's trees was felled. The |
| spindly sticks with quite a depth of water | | | | 12 by 25 m pool was dug an even 1.22m deep, |
| underneath. I wondered at my weight as I | | | | end to end, so as not to disturb the root-system |
| tip-toed along, and wished I didn't have my | | | | of the forest. |
| camera bag. | | | | Strolling through the gardens here, the feeling you |
| "You can go, my friend - NOT DOWN!" And with | | | | get is that of being enshrouded by a canopy of |
| this, by golly, I made it to the end - well almost | | | | green. |
| to the end. I looked to see the gallery that were | | | | Kingfishers and hornbills splash their own brilliant |
| there to share my triumph. "Hey man, give me | | | | colours on the palms and cottage roofs. Flitting at |
| one shot!" (take my photo!) was the anthem I | | | | times perilously close to your nose are the |
| received. | | | | swiftlets that nest in the higher limestone niches |
| Underground River a Must Having come to | | | | and on the ceilings of the caves. Their tiny nests |
| Palawan there was no way I could miss the | | | | are eagerly sought after, especially by the |
| underground river. It's what most tourists come | | | | Chinese, for their gourmet birds nest soup. Local |
| here for. A friend of mine in Melbourne told me he | | | | gatherers climb way up the sheer face of cliffs, |
| had walked there from Princesa - a two day hike. | | | | unaided in their quest by either ladders or ropes. |
| Thankfully, I had a combi and a guide. Even so, | | | | Miniloc is the older of the properties, and the |
| heading northwest out of town, we bumped along | | | | more Filipino in style. Its stilt 'water cottages' allude |
| dirt roads for two and a half hours before we | | | | to a traditional Philippine fishing village. They are |
| finally reached St. Paul National Park. | | | | built of native materials: 'cogon' thatch for the |
| Here you start to see big limestone rocks jutting | | | | roofs, woven bamboo for the interior walls, 'narra' |
| up on both sides of the road. These, I was told, | | | | for the floorboards and checkerboard 'capiz' - a |
| are part of the St. Paul mountain range, all of | | | | mother-of-pearl-like shell - for the doors and |
| which is "karst" limestone. | | | | window screens. Your balcony view is that of the |
| From the port of Sabang we travelled for 20 | | | | brilliant white sand beach fronting the cottages |
| minutes in a pump boat to the beach at the | | | | and clubhouse that take refuge in the foliage at |
| entrance to the park. Here, in the shade of "Dita", | | | | the base of the soaring cliffs behind. A man-made |
| "Salakin", "Piris", "Kalimutaim", "Mabunot", and | | | | breakwater ensures protection from the swells. |
| "Malugail" trees (all conveniently labeled), we | | | | Beyond this are anchored a flotilla of bancas - |
| shared our picnic lunch with three fearsome | | | | Filipino outriggers. They are there solely to serve |
| looking iguanas. They themselves had to contend | | | | the needs of guests. |
| with an impish bunch of monkeys who scampered | | | | Natural Beauty, Adventure Abounds Both Miniloc |
| in to steal scraps from underneath the iguanas' | | | | and Lagen offer a veritable raft of activity |
| plodding feet - funny stuff. | | | | options: beach picnics, island hopping, hikes, hobie |
| The underground river, a five minute walk from | | | | cat sailing, kayaking and dives. You are also given |
| here, runs for no less than eight and a half km | | | | options as to whom you do these with: fellow |
| through the limestone mountains. To explore it, | | | | guests, your friends, your partner or even on |
| you pay 150 pesos (US$3.75) for a paddle "banca". | | | | your own. With so many unfrequented islands in |
| It takes you 11 km up the river. Soon the only | | | | the bay, there is no trouble finding a private |
| light you get comes from the guide's torch. With | | | | beach, especially for honeymooners who might |
| this you are shown the astonishing phenomena | | | | wish to be alone. |
| that nature here has managed to contrive. These | | | | I spent most of my time accompanied by my |
| are giant limestone caves, in some parts 20 m | | | | guides. In Miniloc this was Dante. As natives of |
| wide and 65 m high. Clumps of fruit bats cling to | | | | Cebu, Dante's parents discovered the marine-rich |
| the slippery stone, and brisk little swifts clickety | | | | waters of El Nido on a longer than normal fishing |
| click their way around the caves, narrowly missing | | | | trip. They decided to stay. "Did your parents have |
| your head. | | | | any trouble getting land and a house?" I asked. |
| The river is also home to eels and sightless fish. | | | | "No," answered Dante, "they just squatted like |
| Who needs eyes in a place as black as this? | | | | everyone else." With a home-grown local as my |
| Natural Cathedral Cavern Then there are the | | | | guide, I decided to take up what is another tour |
| "look-alikes" - stalagmites named for their | | | | option: to take a trip to town. |
| resemblance to the 'giant mushroom', a 'sub | | | | El Nido is a more substantial fishing town than you |
| highway', lots of 'grottoes', 'dinosaurs' and 'statues'. | | | | might expect. Though most of its private homes |
| The clincher is 'The Cathedral' with its giant candle, | | | | are of nipa and bamboo, its more substantial |
| confessional, tabernacle, and sculpture of the holy | | | | buildings are cement: the main street shops, |
| family. We had come to church by boat. | | | | municipal buildings, the disco and the gym, aptly |
| From a choice of other day trips that included the | | | | named 'Hard Rocks Cafe'. The people are typically |
| crocodile farm and an open penal colony where | | | | super-friendly Filipinos. They love to welcome |
| convicts live 'useful lives', we opted for some | | | | visitors, pose creatively for pictures and share |
| island hopping at Honda Bay. | | | | with you the funny side of life. |
| Honda Bay is another kind of fishing village. It's | | | | Not only Filipinos have been enticed to live in town. |
| built on a thin peninsula, and exemplifies the Filipino | | | | A bunch of Europeans have settled here as well. |
| capacity to create beauty from the simplest of | | | | In the Mac Mac Restaurant I met the Austrian |
| materials. The nipa huts are artfully and sturdily | | | | proprietor, Max. "It's such a beautiful place, I could |
| constructed, many of them decked with blooms | | | | see no reason to leave," he says, as he and |
| of bougainvillea. All manner of fish were laid out to | | | | Marilu, his Filipina wife, took turns to bounce their |
| dry on huge stretches of bamboo lattice. | | | | baby boy on their knees. Most of these |
| Among the nearby islands you can visit, is Starfish | | | | expatriates run guest houses offering island |
| Island, where there are plenty of starfish; Bat | | | | hopping tours, or restaurants catering to European |
| Island where there are plenty of bats, and Snake | | | | tastes. |
| Island where there are no snakes at all. | | | | Commercial fishing in the Marine Reserve is |
| All are pristine little sandy gems, empty but for a | | | | banned. Small private bancas, though, are |
| few nipa cottages, and shelters used by | | | | permitted to fish, thus helping to sustain the town. |
| fishermen. At Starfish, you can stay in a family | | | | One of the more spectacular sights at El Nido is |
| cottage for 800 pesos a night (US$20) or a | | | | that of one of these spindly little vessels edging |
| double for 500 (US$13). | | | | its way along the base of the towering island |
| The pump-boat ride itself is splashingly good fun, | | | | walls. |
| and as Andy, my guide, said as we bumped along | | | | The best place to witness such unforgettable |
| at a show-ride pace: "This is really hopping - like a | | | | scenes is from the viewpoint on Pangulasian Island. |
| kangaroo." Palawan is the Philippines' last frontier - | | | | Getting there entails a 40 minute trek up a |
| one that is now ardently protected by a | | | | bougainvillea- and forest-shrouded track. |
| government intent on saving the island's forest | | | | Arrival at the top sees what is left of your breath |
| treasures. | | | | snatched summarily away. For from here you are |
| Puerto Princesa bears testimony to the shared will | | | | given a panoramic view of nearly all of Bacuit Bay |
| of the Palaweno people - to do things with a | | | | with any number of those monolithic land forms |
| mind, not only to the security of the people, but | | | | nudging the clouds that try to replicate their |
| also to the conservation of the land. It is this | | | | shapes. |
| above all else - yes, even above the cricket on | | | | El Nido has to be one of the most spectacularly |
| TV - that makes the town a pleasure to be in. | | | | gorgeous spots on earth. |
| Divers Delight That El Nido is a paradise for divers | | | | And to think that just below the surface of those |
| is well known. But as I was now discovering, | | | | gleaming turquoise waters another even more |
| snorkellers, swimmers and even strollers on a pier | | | | enticing, more enchanting, 'other world' awaits. |
| can also get their sub-aquatic thrills. Though I must | | | | Divemasters know exactly where the choicest |
| admit, my free introductory dive had not yet | | | | patches are, to let you savour to the utmost El |
| qualified me for the kinds of depths where lurk | | | | Nido's watery delights. |
| the mighty whale shark, manta ray, eagle ray and | | | | But remember, it may not be such a good idea |
| giant clam, all of which Ian assured me he had | | | | to try to feed the whale sharks and manta rays |
| seen on recent dives. Sure I was just a little | | | | by hand. |
| jealous, but thrilled just the same with my green | | | | Information Box Airline: Philippine Airlines fly to |
| sea turtle encounter, along with the schools of | | | | Manila from Melbourne four times a week, from |
| angelfish and barracuda that finned quizzically | | | | Sydney five times a week and from Brisbane |
| around me on the reefs. | | | | once a week. They fly to Cebu from Melbourne |
| There are more than 20 dive sites around El | | | | & Sydney once a week. |
| Nido's Bacuit Bay. These range from graded | | | | Philippine Airlines fly to Puerto Princesa, Palawan |
| slopes to drop-off's, and from wall dives to flat | | | | from Cebu twice a week and from Manila every |
| reef. The more intrepid may wish to tackle the | | | | day When: The best time to visit is the dry |
| tunnels and caverns nearby El Nido town. South | | | | season from November through April. |
| Miniloc teems with ribbon eels, angelfish and | | | | Bring: Light cottons, sun hat, sun block, repellent, |
| barracuda. The table corals at Twin Rocks are | | | | swimwear, slide film if required Buy: Palawan |
| home to seawhips and rays, while Tres Marias' | | | | baskets are famous for their elegant design, and |
| mammoth boulders harbour painted crays, | | | | especially for their incredibly fine and intricate |
| mackerel and white-tip sharks. Visibility is good to | | | | weave. They are available at the Puerto Princesa |
| nearly 30 m and is best from March through May. | | | | market and at handicraft shops in town. Judge the |
| Not Only for Divers Yet you don't have to dive, | | | | quality by the fineness and tightness of the |
| snorkel or even tickle your toes in the shallows to | | | | weave Visa: None required for stays of less than |
| be inspired at El Nido. Scenically the place is | | | | 21 days |
| another-world. The area takes its name from the | | | | |