| Never have I experienced anything so, if you'll | | | | followed. |
| excuse the cliche, spine-tingling, as Easter in Spain. | | | | When the procession was ready to move off |
| I have read about the atmosphere, seen photos | | | | again one of the brethren would tap three times |
| of the immaculately decorated floats (Tronos) and | | | | on the front of the Trono, then one drum would |
| watched the emotive processions on TV. But | | | | start beating slowly, joined by another, then |
| none of that prepared me for what I was about | | | | another, and then all of a sudden, the Trono |
| to experience on arrival in Jerez de la Frontera, in | | | | would be lifted with a mighty gasp from the |
| the heart of Andalucía. | | | | crowd and a cry of guapa. The band launched into |
| We arrived in Jerez on the night of Maundy | | | | one of its emotive numbers, and the march |
| Thursday and were instantly drawn into the | | | | started again. |
| overwhelming ambience which had been building | | | | One of the most emotive sights we witnessed |
| up with daily processions since Palm Sunday. We | | | | was when the Tronos would sway in time with |
| followed the din of the pounding drums, not really | | | | the music. Imagine being totally indulged in the |
| knowing what to expect as we approached the | | | | rhythm of the band so that you subconsciously |
| crowd ahead. There were hundreds of people all | | | | start to move in time with it. You see the Trono |
| seeming impatient, children on the shoulders of | | | | approaching, filling you with awe. The brethren |
| their fathers blowing toy trumpets, women | | | | carrying the float have an arduous job just lifting |
| dressed as if going to a funeral. The volume of | | | | it, but now they are moving from side to side, |
| the music grew to a thunderous level. And then | | | | making it sway so that the statue on it appears |
| there it was: the first Trono we had ever seen in | | | | to be walking towards you, one shoulder in front |
| real life: Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception. | | | | of the other. They don't do it often, but when |
| It was lit with hundreds of candles which cast | | | | they do, the brethren are rewarded with heartfelt |
| shadows on the face of Our Lady, and as she | | | | applause by the crowd. |
| drew closer, she seemed to look me straight in | | | | There were no processions on Easter Saturday |
| the eye. She was so beautiful, dressed in her | | | | which gave us the opportunity to enjoy even |
| exquisite, flowing burgundy and gold velvet gown. | | | | more sightseeing in Jerez and take the smooth |
| The first of many shivers prickled the back of | | | | and efficient Andalucía Express into |
| my neck as the spicy scent of incense infiltrated | | | | Cádiz. |
| my nostrils. | | | | On the morning of Easter Sunday, we excitedly |
| We finally retired to bed in the early hours of | | | | left our hotel and followed the crowds to one of |
| Friday morning after following the procession and | | | | the main squares where we could see the |
| then joining hundreds of hungry Spaniards for | | | | procession approaching in the distance. The mood |
| tapas. As the processions go on all through the | | | | in the crowd was different from Good Friday: |
| night, our sleep was disturbed on several | | | | upbeat, not sombre. Everyone was dressed to |
| occasions by trumpet blast and thumping drums | | | | impress in vibrant colours rather than the black of |
| outside our hotel! But it didn't matter; it was an | | | | the past few days of mourning. |
| accepted part of the celebrations. | | | | The music was triumphant instead of sombre and |
| The morning of Good Friday was spent darting | | | | the church bells resonated their passionate chimes |
| from street to street trying to head off the | | | | whilst the parade marched past. The parade was |
| processions to get a full frontal view. We saw | | | | a real patchwork of colour and people: women |
| three different brotherhoods that morning, each | | | | wearing white mantillas held in place with ornate |
| parading their own spectacularly ornate Trono. I | | | | brooches; immaculately dressed children carrying |
| read that the brotherhoods spend months | | | | candles and ringing little bells; local dignitaries |
| preparing for the Easter processions; practicing | | | | flaunting their pristine banners. |
| their marches and polishing those amazing floats. | | | | The procession lasted two hours and culminated |
| You can see the evidence of this as soon as you | | | | at the Cathedral, where the achingly heavy Trono |
| lay eyes on them. | | | | bearing Christ of the Resurrection was carried, |
| The Good Friday processions are followed by | | | | with utter eminence, up steps and slopes, to the |
| penitents who wear the renowned pointed | | | | entrance, where in a rapture of applause, it |
| headdresses and flowing gowns. Men, women and | | | | disappeared inside and all fell quiet around Jerez. |
| children were marching in these costumes, | | | | At around 5pm, crowds started to reconvene |
| carrying large candles and heavy crosses. Some | | | | outside the cathedral and with a solo trumpet |
| of them were barefoot. | | | | blast, the doors of the cathedral opened wide and |
| The morning processions subsided around | | | | out came every Trono that had been involved in |
| lunchtime and all fell quiet in Jerez, leaving us to | | | | the week-long processions. This Easter Sunday |
| visit some of the sights. | | | | evening we saw some of the best parades of |
| | | | the weekend. The feeling in the crowd was |
| At around 5pm, that now familiar beating drum | | | | uplifted, the mood one of hope, happiness and |
| stimulated a distant band to strike up their | | | | joy, and even the incense smelt different - |
| notorious sound. We joined the hundreds of eager | | | | sweeter. |
| onlookers lining the streets just outside our hotel. | | | | This weekend was a tremendous experience. I |
| The distinct and mesmerising sound of the band | | | | would recommend Semana Santa in Spain to be |
| drew closer in a gradual crescendo and we saw, in | | | | in the top five on any Traveller's Wish List. |
| the distance, the first of many Tronos | | | | I did some homework before deciding in which |
| approaching. A feeling of wonderment came over | | | | Spanish city to spend Easter. It was clear that |
| me. | | | | some of the best processions were to be |
| The Tronos were led by priests, dressed in | | | | witnessed in Seville, but the sheer depth of the |
| immaculate purple robes trimmed with crisp white | | | | crowds would make it impossible to get the |
| lace. The priests swung their incense burners | | | | close-up views I wanted. From my research, it |
| continuously, bellowing the intoxicating aroma into | | | | seemed that Andalucía would be a good |
| the warm evening air. | | | | choice, and that a weekend in Jerez de la |
| Just before it reached us, the parade came to a | | | | Frontera would also give me the chance to visit |
| halt. The band stopped playing, and so began El | | | | the bodegas of the sherry-producing giants and |
| Silencio. Everyone was quiet, even the young | | | | also witness the Flamenco and Equestrian heritage |
| children. The silence lasted for a few minutes and | | | | for which it is famed. |
| was incredibly moving. At this point, on two or | | | | Before we left for Jerez, I obtained a timetable |
| three occasions over the weekend, we witnessed | | | | from the Tourist Office website, so that I could |
| a member of the crowd breaking into a saeta, an | | | | see which Brethren were marching, where and |
| impromptu Flamenco style song. The singers' | | | | when. This proved very useful. Information |
| passion was profound; tears fell and hands | | | | booklets were also available from the Tourist |
| pounding their chests. They sang praise, and | | | | Office in Jerez. |
| heartfelt applause and tears from the crowd | | | | |