| Gorillas in the Mist among the three Countries that | | | | though browsing in a market and they are big and |
| host them | | | | strong the Mountain Gorillas. |
| Uganda, Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of | | | | Suddenly, out of nowhere I hear a huge roaring. I |
| the Congo | | | | look up to find the silverback, a gorilla of amazing |
| Having an hour of interaction with one of nature's | | | | proportions standing up and challenging my guide. |
| great species and one of closest relatives to man | | | | He bangs his fists against his chest in a "King Kong |
| is an experience second to none on this planet | | | | style" and makes a deep bellow that echoes |
| earth. Mountain gorillas are the most an | | | | against all the vegetation. I am assured he is just |
| endangered species and it is said that there are | | | | asserting his position as the alpha male, what a |
| only 650 left in the wild jungles of the national | | | | wonderful experience. |
| parks bordering, Uganda, Rwanda and the | | | | The challenged guide makes a few throat-clearing, |
| Democratic Republic of Congo. | | | | cough-like noises, which does very little to soothe |
| Crossing the border of grass between Rwanda | | | | my racing heart. When confronted by a huge, |
| and Uganda leads you into an entirely different | | | | hairy gorilla twice your size, grabbing a defensive |
| world, and one that is exceptionally defined by | | | | weapon or running would seem more logical to |
| many. With the vivid memory of news reports | | | | me than coughing. The reassurance that gorillas |
| and stories of the tragedy of the 1994 genocide, | | | | are docile animals is countered by the knowledge |
| a traveler does not expect to find sealed, tarred | | | | that a gorilla can pluck a human head off its |
| roads, new buildings and other facilities that are | | | | shoulders with ease. But "they would never hurt a |
| not found in the seemingly more developed and | | | | fly," and that's what makes them exceptionally |
| relatively untroubled Uganda to the north of | | | | cute creatures. |
| Rwanda. | | | | The Mountain gorillas now stop climbing away |
| Contrasting the serious, military façade that | | | | from me and settle in a clearing. Off to the right |
| are found along the border are the friendly | | | | is a fallen tree, with an adult female feeding on |
| trackers I meet at the visitor's centre in the Park | | | | the top. Behind her the jungle stretches up the |
| National de Volcanoes. This amazing national park | | | | side of the volcano in an endless sea of green. |
| has got three ancient volcanoes whose forms | | | | The colours of the jungle are incredibly vivid and |
| dominate the entire Rwenzori horizon. The | | | | contrast strikingly with the black colour of the |
| trackers are local guides who have worked with | | | | Mountain gorillas. |
| the gorillas for many years and are accepted as | | | | My hour comes to an end with two babies rolling |
| part of their family. | | | | over each other in front of me. Their actions are |
| I start trekking through the natural forest and the | | | | so childlike reminding me of my child hood; I can |
| evidence of nutrient-rich forest soil is the | | | | read the mischief in their eyes when they look |
| abundance of crops that are worked by the | | | | straight at me. The silverback watches his |
| natural forest lines, and from here it is pure jungle. | | | | youngsters play with fatherly approval, and |
| No paths. No handrails. No people very interesting | | | | glances at us humans occasionally with curiosity. It |
| indeed. | | | | makes you think who is watching who? |
| My guide creates a path with his machete as he | | | | There are 32 permits issued per day in the Parc |
| communicates with the three trackers who joined | | | | National de Volcanoes, Rwanda, to view one of |
| the gorillas at five in the morning. After 45 | | | | four families of habituated gorillas. These gorillas |
| minutes of hard work, falling through vines and | | | | have had protectors surrounding them from |
| avoiding stinging nettle, from behind a tree a huge | | | | poachers for many years, and are tolerant of |
| black figure emerges, takes a glance in my | | | | visitors for one hour a day. The revenue |
| direction and wanders off to find more food (The | | | | generated from the permits goes into protecting |
| Mountain Gorilla). From this sighting began one of | | | | the gorillas and injecting money-making activities |
| the most amazing hours of my life that I can | | | | into the local region. It is clear to see from local |
| never forget! | | | | community projects that the benefits of |
| A few meters higher I come to a group of young | | | | protecting the primates filter down to all levels of |
| females feeding in an open clearing. Babies are | | | | society, and encourage the locals to preserve |
| climbing in the trees as the mist hangs over the | | | | what little gorillas are left for future generations! |
| air like a postcard. The jungle is so thick that the | | | | And with that I make my way still with my guide |
| smaller gorillas almost disappear as they sit down | | | | from the famous Gorilla tracking activity that I will |
| to feed on a particular bush. The thought that | | | | live to remember all the days of my life. |
| most often comes into mind is, "They are so | | | | Safaris to see the gorillas of Africa can be |
| human-like." Their eyes betray intelligence and | | | | arranged by Allen Deborah Nakawojwa of Access |
| they are so beautiful. They select leaves as | | | | Africa Safaris who also contributed to this article. |