Trekking Along Kali Gandaki to Mustang

Trekkers come to Nepal and head to Solu-the region from the south as well as the north.
Khumbu in the shadow of Mount Everest. AndThe lower reaches of the Kali Gandaki River
rightfully so, as Everest is still the highest peak onvalley, meaning the region in elevations lower than
earth and trekking to the likes of Gokyo Ri,rice cultivation limit of approximately 5,000 feet
Chukung Ri and Kala Pattar is a spectacularabove sea level, were historically settled by two
adventure in every sense of the word.of so called Ancient Nepalese ethnic groups,
Second trekking destination of note in the Nepalnamely Gurungs and Magars. The Ancient
Himalayas continues to be the Annapurna Circuit,Nepalese races, however, have not remained the
from Pokhara along the Marsyangdi River valleysole settlers of the attractive middle-hills region.
to the hidden Manang region north of the fish-tailAs a result of Muslim invasions into the Indian
mountain of Machapuchare and the impressivesubcontinent, forced to flee, Brahmans, the caste
Annapurna summits.of Hindu priests, and Chetris, the descendents of
Many trekkers opt for the Annapurna Sanctuary,the Kshatriya warriors caste of India, started to
a rewarding trek up to the Annapurna base campmigrate from the northern plains of India into the
which offers a sweeping panorama of HighMidlands of Nepal, settling in the fertile altitudes
Himalayas from Dhaulagiri to Himalchuli andbetween 3,500 to 5,000 feet.
Manaslu. But often overlooked is the trek alongIn consequence of the migrations from the south,
the very bottom of the Kali Gandaki river gorge,Gurungs and Magars moved up into the mountains
yet the experience of traversing through villagesabove the river bottom of the Kali Gandaki gorge
of Tatopani to Tukuche, passing from elevationsand today reside in altitudes of 6,000 to 8,000
of 5,000 to 8,500 feet above sea level, andfeet with their staple crop, seen hung drying off
looking up at the vista framed by 26,800 feetthe eaves, being corn rather than rice.
high Dhaulagiri massif to the west and 26,500From the north, from Tibet proper, came the
Annapurna Range to the east is simply astounding.Tibetan population groups, who settled in the rain
Considering that the summits of these twoshadow of the Himalayas, in the Inner Himalayan
mountain ranges are only some 20 miles apart,valleys, such as the Baragaunle villages in the side
and both tower to altitudes of over 26,000 feetvalleys of the Kali Gandaki behind Dhaulagiri and
and the Kali Gandaki River cuts its way betweenthe Annapurnas, or as is the case of the Thakalis,
them at an altitude of only some 6,000 feet, thechoosing to settle along Kali Gandaki and its side
vantage point of such a dramatic verticalvalleys but not below 8,000 feet, preferring less
difference is truly mind boggling.harsh climatic conditions than those of Upper
But the topography, climatic conditions andMustang.
physical characteristics of the environment inAlthough the Thakalis in order to raise their social
general one experiences progressing north alongstatus have since late 19th century proclaimed
the river from its lower reaches all the way tothemselves as Hindus, first glimpse of their villages
the rain shadow of the Himalayas are only part ofproves their Buddhist past. Near and practically in
the magic of this trek. The trek also offers aevery Thakali village can be found long mani walls,
fascinating glimpse of history and understanding ofchortens as well as now mostly dilapidated
a cultural makeup and settlement patterns of thegompas. The Thakali region of Kali Gandaki thus in
Nepal Himalayas.a way represents the melting point of the
Kali Gandaki is indeed a melting pot of cultures, ofBuddhist cultures from the north and the Hindu
Ancient Nepalese and cultures that migrated intocultures from the south.