Traversing History Through Travel - A Visit to the Gingee Fort!

Definitely it required a very good stamina; aa few minutes in a nearby rock. When I looked
healthy mind and a body; a trouble free heart;around in a relaxed manner,I could see the visitors
otherwise it would have been a riskytrickled in few numbers one by one. At the same,
venture.That was exactly what I felt when II was astonished to see our ancestors (monkeys)
recently traveled to Gingee, in Tamil Nadu andclimbing and jumping in the nearby trees at ease,
visited one of the three much acclaimed forts,without any difficulty, whatsoever. They could
called Rajagiri.also walk on the high rampart of the fort walls
Gingee fort is situate on the state highwayquite easily that had been built at a great height;
between Tindivanam and Thiruvannamalai and it isas I was looking upon the fort stretching my
roughly about 38 km away in the northwest ofneck backwards, they entered those places within
Villupuram and some 150 km away in the Southno time that we, the human beings could not
West of Chennai, the capital of Tamil Nadu.even imagine. For the first time in my life, I had a
Gingee has three famous forts situate in afeeling of envy over those monkeys.
triangular set up known as Rajagiri, Krishnagiri andAfter a while, when I was climbing with great
Chandragiri within a striking distance of onedifficulty, I could also see some surprise hosts like
another. While Rajagiri is the primary fort, themillipedes, large snakes and strange insects that I
other two forts are feminine parts of it with ahad hitherto not come across. I could also hear
low profile and fewer visitors than Rajagiri. A fortsome nonstop screeching sounds from some
wall stretching and encompassing all these fortsinsects and I could not see those insects. While I
had also been built and it still remains as a standingwas proceedings onwards, I could also see the
monument.swarming of bees in large numbers and they had
These three forts are said to have been built bytheir hives safely built at a great height on the
some Konars, that refers to the names of somehills.I could also hear people were pointing out
chieftains, during the period between 1200 A.Dthose hives and saying that the honey stored in
and 1240 A.D.Thereafter, Gingee had been ruledsuch hives would not only have a great medicinal
over by Nayaks of Vijayanagara Empire and thevalue besides immensely tasty. Such honey is
Marathas and then came under the influence ofknown in our vernacular language as 'malai thane'
the Moghuls. In the year 1791, the Gingee Fortsmeaning honey stored in the hives of hills or
were captured by the French East India company;mountains by bees.
some of the rock pillars of the forts wereEnroute to the fort, there are a number of
dismembered and taken away by the Frenchshelter houses with only minimum facilities, that
soldiers as a mark of their victory over Gingeemust have served as rest houses for the soldiers
and they still guard the Dupleix statue inwho were on guard as well as to the people who
Pondicherry (Now renamed as Pudhucherry).were on their way to the fort to see the king.
Another interesting aspect of Gingee fort is thatAs I was nearing the fort, I could see some
it has been periodically renovated and wellgranite steps leading to a temple known as 'Venu
maintained by the Archaeological Survey of IndiaGopalasamy Temple', a temple dedicated to Lord
and in fact they have an office on the outskirtsKrishna. Perhaps, the temple was exclusively
of the Gingee fort. A proposed visitor has to paymeant for the worship by the King whose abode
an entrance fee of Rs 5/- to the ASI.is the fort. Finally, when I managed to reach the
Without knowing the actual difficulties or thetop of the fort, I felt as if I reached the pinnacle
physical hardships that I had to undergo, I decidedof Mount Everest. Of course, even though 800
to go to the top of the primary fort, Rajagiri,feet might not be a great height, my age might
though I read about its height through the outlinebe a factor.
map provided by the ASI at the entrance of theOn reaching the top of the fort, I almost heaved
fort ; parked my vehicle on the outskirts of Forta sigh of relief, because I did not have to climb
under a banyan tree; Having an entrance ticketfurther. I got refreshed by cleaning my face, with
for Rs 5/-, I went inside the fort.my hand kerchief. The ground level was almost
Now I went into almost a different world.I felt aseven.
if I had triggered the time machine backwardsThere are a few notable buildings situated within
from the 21 st Century to the Centuries betweenthe close proximity of one another. There was a
13 th to 18 th.three storied granary, perhaps to feed the King
Nearby the entrance of the fort, within 100 feetand his Entourage.
away there is a unique building known as 'KalyanaA durbar hall, where the king used to make his
Mahal' (which is now under renovation work), apublic appearance, a three storied watch and
Kutb Minar like structure with multi storiesward building from where the movements of
surrounded by large and spacious halls, thatenemies could be monitored, a great gun that
served as the resting halls of the soldiers andcould instantly fire at the enemies at any time in
their horses. Nearby the Kalayana Mahal, I couldcase of emergency, are the notable buildings
also see three or four very large banyan treessituated at the top.
that must have provided succor to the soldiersLord Ranganatha Temple built on the top of the
and horses after a long journey.fort was another notable achievement. The
Within the distance of some 100 feet, there is atemple had been built on the Vijyanagara style of
magazine fully built with granite stones thatarchitecture; it is now desolate without any shrine
served as a storehouse for gunpowder. It had noor any worshipper. The temple must have been
entrance, perhaps it remained closed.so famous and busy when the Hindu rulers were
Another interesting building is a gymnasium thatholding their sway. In the precincts of the temple,
had built rather artistically in the style of a temple.I was huddling for some time and got refreshed.
Though the gymnasium has a main entrance, it isStill my thoughts had been hovering around
rather narrow; the interior of the gym looks like abetween 13 th and 18 th centuries.
lengthy hall with only a fewer windows at aAll buildings on the top of the fort remained
height; at the entrance of the gym, you can alsoempty and desolate.They have become the
see a number of steps built side wards elevatedabodes of bats which were busily flying here and
to the half of the height of the gym and leadingthere. And above all those buildings have a
to a narrow platform. Reaching that platformstrange stench caused by the movement of
through those steps must have been a greatthese bats and it makes you even more nostalgic
exercise that must have showcased theirabout the past.
strength and stamina.The history of the Gingee fort will not be
Another notable building situated nearby is acomplete without mentioning about Raja Tej
granary that served as a store house for the bulkSingh, who was considered as the best ruler of
stocks of grains like paddy, bajra and ragi. I wasGingee having his abode at Rajagiri, at the Gingee
struck with awe and wonder by the idea andfort.He had a very faithful muslim general.When
planning in building such a great granary with veryRaja Tej Singh died, a funeral was performed
little scope for any pilferage of the grains stored.within the premises of the fort and his wife is said
What they did to prevent the pests that mightto have committed Sati on the funeral pyre of
have been a threat to the granary is not known.her husband Raja Tej Singh.The place where Raja
Yet another spectacular building that you can seeTej Singh's funeral was performed and his wife
nearby is a tank known as 'Tamarai Kulam'(Lotuscommitted Sati can also been within the fort of
Pond) with a very good facility for bathing as wellGingee.
as relaxing. You can also see a number of roomsThere is also a mosque built in the memory of
and small halls nearby the tank from where youSad-ud-ullahkhan, a muslim ruler of Gingee, in the
can have access to the tank through stepsoutskirts of the Gingee Fort, Rajagiri. The Rajagiri
sloping downwards to the tank.fort had entrances known as Pondicherry
There was a greenish lawn in the surroundingentrance and Vellore entrance etc.
area, with very rare variety of plants and flowers.On climbing down from the fort of Rajagiri, I was
Now it was time to climb and reach the fortlargely relieved of my physical strain and
'Rajagiri', because I had to return back bypressure.It seemed that the time machine also
0500pm. After 0500 pm visitors are not allowedhad relapsed to 21 st century.But still some
to go to Rajagiri.serious questions that arose in my mind remained
Hitherto I have only heard or read aboutunanswered:
mountaineering and have never experienced1. Why did the ruler or the King or whatever
it.When I climbed over the rough granite steps ofname you call it remained or kept himself so aloof
the hill leading to the fort Rajagiri, which stands asthat too at a height of 800 feet or so? Was he a
tall as 800 feet, I had very little knowledge abouthuman or super human? Did he mingle easily with
mountaineering. The granite steps were ratherhis people or not? Or was he accessible to the
rough and in a state of the art condition and itpeople or not?
requires a lot of patience and care while climbing2. Just because he was a ruler, was he entitled to
the steps.A momentary lapse or carelessnesssuch painstaking protections or securities?
may endanger your life resulting in your stumbling3. Whether our modern day leaders replicate
and there is every possibility that you may falterthose rulers of the 13th century, especially in
and your head may get smashed in a nearbyguarding themselves and providing security for
rock or in a granite step; particularly in the rainythemselves?
season when the granite rocks remain damp andI hope very soon I will have appropriate answers
slippery, it is almost suicidal to climb the hill.for all the above mentioned questions.
Even though at the beginning I could climb throughWhether you agree with me or not, you will think
the steps quite easily, after half an hour as Itwice before embarking upon such adventures of
went on climbing in a zigzag or circuitous route, Imountaineering. It is really a risky proposition. But
was sweating profusely; I was almost gasping. Ithe benefits that I derived from such adventure
even felt some sort of giddiness; I took rest forare immense and they are invaluable.