Through the Atacama Desert on the Tacna-Arica Railroad

Driving toward the Arica Railway Station in Chileand by the Linke Hoffman Company in Germany.
on a swelteringly hot summer morning, I caughtEleven rail cars had comprised the fleet by 1939.
glimpse of the wooden, 60-year-old, English-builtHaving been administered by Enafur, the
sentinel car, registered 0261 and painted a brightFerrocarril Tacna-Arica had been passed on to
orange and yellow, on display, making my way upEnapu and ultimately the regional government of
the few stairs and crossing through the building toTacna, the Arica railway workshops having been
the platform, where I awaited the day's firstrelocated to this terminus and ownership of the
departure of the Ferrocarril Tacna-Arica Railway,Chilean section of track having been retained by
scheduled to leave at 0935 for its trek across thePeru at this time.
border, by means of the vast expanses of theAlthough earthquakes and floods had destroyed
Atacama Desert, to Tacna, Peru. A tour bus,part of the line in 2001, its reconstruction, coupled
intermittently stopping in front of the station,with persistence, had enabled it to celebrate its
disgorged some two dozen passengers who had150-year anniversary in 2006.
equally scampered through the depot andThe rising dust tornado, revealing the
immediately infiltrated the singular, stationary,sun-glistening rails the single car had just cleared,
museum-like car. Raising an arm and about tocontinued to trail it. Flat expanses of brown dust
inquire if the group had been awaiting the morningstretched to the tan-shaded, wave-like silhouettes
train to Peru, a nameless face audibly correctedof the Cerro Cabeza out the right windows. A
my thoughts with an exclamation. "This is it!" itman stranded here, on the other side of the
had shouted.single coach's green, paint-peeling walls, would
In disbelief, I climbed the few steps into theassuredly cause him to hallucinate those
wooden relic, fully expected it to remainsilhouettes into waves of water, I had thought.
stationary and silent, yet the "engineer" enteredLurching on its lateral axis, the coach, still vibrating
his own forward, side door, inserted a key, andfrom its retrofitted diesel engine and clacking as
the car's deep, throaty, diesel engine pinnacled intoits wheels rode the sometimes-disappearing rails,
chassis-vibrating life. "Through the Atacamacrossed the Chilean-Peruvian border, marked by a
Desert in this," I thought?short obelisk, at 1000. The hot, dry wind carried
Initiating momentum and inching past the platformnot welcomed breezes through the opened
on the single track before my thoughts could runwindows, but parching steams of sand instead.
to the end of theirs, this moving, autonomousPassengers, negotiating the cramped car, which
coach would serve as both transportation andhad featured a four-abreast, face-to-face
protection, as both engine and rail car. Parallelingconfiguration of bench seats, gathered in the
the sand-lined Pacific beneath the sky, which hadyellow-painted, mid-vestibule whose sliding doors
worn its flawlessly-blue morning ensemble, thehad provided egress on either side.
coach followed the dust-imbedded track past theThe track, along with the Atacama Desert which
Arica suburbs characterized by their modern,had supported it, seemed to stretch into dry
low-rise apartments, behind which rose the soft,infinity in front of the train.
wave-like, tan and brown mountain silhouettes ofStretching, in fact, 600 to 700 miles from north
the Andean foothills, which had been as dry asto south, between the Loa River and the
dust and devoid of a single green sprout ofmountains which separated the Salado-Copiapo
vegetation.drainage basin, it extended as far as Peru's north
Seemingly trackless, the wagon, built up ofborder and had been flanked by the Cordillera
vertical wooden planks and a slightly arched ceiling,Domeyko in the east and the Cordillera de la
penetrated the dirt-buried rails periodically flankedCosta in the west. Comprised of pebble and sand,
by small heaps of rock and sand, on the fringesalluvial accumulations in the east and salt pans at
of the Atacama Desert, the dust filtering throughthe foot of the coastal mountains in the west, it
the open windows and leaving the eyes stung andcontained the 3,000-foot Tamarugal Plain, itself
the mouth immersed in sand. Behind, in its wake,formed by a raised depression running from north
rose mini-dust tornadoes and the just-coveredto south. A part of the continent's arid shoreline,
track, stretching to its origin, somehow symbolicthe desert had been created by the permanent
of the railroad's history, which had equallySouth Pacific high pressure cell which had rendered
stretched to its origin.it one of the world's driest locations, resulting in an
Peru's only international rail line, and the second toaverage rainfall of two to four times per century.
have been constructed here, the FerrocarrilNow approaching Tacna, the rail car veritably
Tacna-Arica traces its origin to December 16,entered an oasis in the desert. The Caplina
1851, when a decree, authorizing the constructionRiver-irrigated valley, lining either side of the
of a railroad, had led to a contract, awarded tohitherto dusty track, had revealed lush greenery,
John Hegan on August 6 of the following year. Itwhich supported the growth of figs, olives,
had stipulated the import of 400 Chinese workers,grapes, pomegranates, and prickly pears.
usage of standard rail gauge, the establishment ofTiny, cement block squares, beyond the greenery
minimum tariffs, and the transfer of rights to aand no larger than tool sheds, marked the
third party. Hegan, granted a two million PeruvianPeruvians' individual land claims, location of their
peso advance for the project, had been requiredfuture residences, while even earlier claims had
to repay it within a three-year period at abeen designated by sheer lines traced in the
4.5-percent interest rate.desert, marks representing the foundations of
The line, completed in 1855, had stretched 62future dwellings. To the left of the track, even
kilometers at a 1.455-millimeter gauge,electricity lines had risen from the dust, indicating
constructed of 60 pounds-per-yard of railinitial fringes of civilization.
fastened to quebracho wood ties, and hadAs the train continued its journey, yet a third
encompassed the six stations of Tacna, Kilometrostage of structural progress had been prevalent:
42, Hospicio, Escritos, Chacalluta, and Arica, anddesert lines had supported concrete walls and
had traversed five bridges. A 3.8-percent gradethese had been covered with bricks, yet not a
had been maintained between Magullo and Tacna.single human had dwelled in any of these pending,
Trial service of the "Empresa del Ferrocarrilstill roofless buildings. It had seemed as if the vast
Tacna-Arica FCTA," or "Arica and Tacna Railwayexpanses had sprouted a soulless, still-uninhabited
Company," had commenced on December 25,city.
1855, while scheduled passenger service had beenSandwiched between modern, dual-lane roads
inaugurated two years later, on January 1, 1857,forming Avenida Cuzco, the track, thresholding
with a fleet of five 4-4-0 R & W HawthornTacna, penetrated the city, its buildings becoming
locomotives numbered 869 to 873, thus beginningcommercial and toting their purposes with signs,
its contractual 99-year period.with each clack of the car's wheels.
Because initial passenger and freight volume hadPiercing the silence with its horn as it announced
failed to generate sufficient revenue, their tariffs,its arrival from Chile, the Ferrocarril Tacna-Arica
attempting to stimulate traffic, had been halved inengine-coach threaded its way past palm
1859.tree-lined strips of manicured grass and fieldstone
Although President Balta-mandated studies tosidewalks, while cars and taxis, paralleling its path,
extend the line to La Paz, Bolivia, would havemoved within arm's reach on either side. The
been instrumental in troop transport during thespires of the cathedral, rising from the Plaza de
War of the Pacific, the project had neverArmas, loomed in the distance.
materialized.Inching through the clock tower-supported gate,
Two other developments had been considered: athe single, orange-and-yellow wagon screeched to
478-kilometer, eastward extension, contemplateda halt on the copper-colored rails which had
in 1904, would also have taken the line to La Paz,multiplied into many and had cradled the steam
while a 278-kilometer southward extension, fromengines, wooden coaches, and freight cars
Arica to Zapiga, would have connected it to thedisplayed by the Tacna Railroad Museum, rolling
Chilean railway system, but Chile's then currentstock which had been instrumental in the
occupation of the territory had otherwiseFerrocarril Tacna-Arica's early history.
deterred both efforts.Descending the three, steep steps to the
Several additional steam locomotives had beenplatform of the 1856 station, I glanced at the
instrumental in maintaining service, inclusive oftrack leading through the clock tower gate
both a Morro and a Tacura 2-6-0 Rogers andtoward the city and stretching through the
later-model 4-4-0 Hawthorns, all doing so duringsometimes buried no-man's land of the Atacama
the latter part of the 1800s. Early-1900'sDesert, across the border to Chile, and to its
equipment had included 2-4-0 and 2-6-0 BaldwinsArica origin, and somehow realized that it had
of 1908, a 0-4-0 Kerr Stuart of 1911, and a C-Cconnected me, two countries, and a
Alco Diesel of 1958, equipment built both locallycentury-and-a-half of history, all in a single day.