| If the idea of exploring Europe is met by a "been | | | | around the world. In just one typical year, there |
| there, done that" response, think again. There's a | | | | were over 25,000 pilgrims from 72 countries. |
| unique option whose concept started long before | | | | But what attracts folks to the Camino? For many |
| the advent of those whirlwind package tours. You | | | | it is the solitude and chance to shut out the |
| can walk all or part of the Camino de Santiago | | | | distractions of a busy world, to meditate, to |
| across northern Spain for an intimate, | | | | reaffirm their faith, to search for answers, to find |
| at-your-own-pace exploration of a country | | | | inspiration. This is the perfect venue, since it can |
| steeped in magnificent beauty, art, history and | | | | be a walking meditation, not a marathon. |
| faith. | | | | For others it is the chance to discover precious, |
| Traveling the Way of St. James had its origins | | | | little-seen art and architecture, such as Astorga's |
| over a thousand years ago when pilgrims or | | | | magnificent Bishop's Palace built by renowned |
| "peregrinos" from throughout Europe journeyed | | | | architect Antonio Gaudi. It's a chance to stroll |
| across Spain to Santiago de Compostela in search | | | | ancient Roman roads and appreciate twenty-arch |
| of miracles, as a penance, or to honor St. James | | | | stone bridges like the Paso Honroso, |
| the Apostle who is entombed in the Cathedral. In | | | | commemorating a month-long jousting |
| those days, early pilgrims, which included even | | | | tournament in 1434. Or you might explore castles |
| royalty and popes, had to risk bandits, extreme | | | | built by the Knights Templar, elaborate fountains, |
| illness, wolves, difficult river crossings and | | | | frescoes, sculpture and relics sequestered in tiny |
| dangerous encounters with the Moors. Today | | | | romanesque churches along the way. |
| those challenges no longer exist, allowing millions to | | | | For some, it is simply the opportunity to take |
| make this trek with somewhat less hardship. | | | | part in a rich tradition of wandering the same path |
| Many begin their journey in St.-Jean-Pied-de-Port in | | | | in the same spirit (and earning the same aching |
| the rugged Pyrenees just across the French | | | | muscles and blisters) as millions of peregrinos over |
| border, or in Roncesvalles on the Spanish side. | | | | the past millennium. Certainly a highlight is savoring |
| Most frequent connections to Roncesvalles are | | | | Spain's rich culture. If you're lucky, you might |
| through Madrid. Take the bus to Pamplona, then a | | | | arrive in a village during their version of the |
| bus next day (only 1 daily) to Roncesvalles. Bus | | | | running of the bulls, or during a Saint's Day |
| connections also available though Barcelona. To | | | | festival, complete with memorable local cuisine, |
| St.-Jean-Pied-de-Port, take the train from Paris to | | | | traditional costumes, lively games and parades. Or |
| Bayonne, then a local train. | | | | just revel in the exploration of traditional delicacies, |
| In Roncesvalles you can register and obtain a | | | | from the wonderful selection of rustic chorizo |
| Pilgrim's "Credencial" which identifies you as a | | | | (sausage) and hearty sheep cheeses of the |
| peregrino and allows you to stay in "refugios", | | | | distinctive Basque region to Portomarin's |
| small inns along this 500 mile path. Each day you | | | | enormous almond pastries, Torta de Santiago, |
| set out either alone, in couples, or a group, | | | | decorated with sword and shepherd's staff, to |
| depending on your inclination. This is no tour. | | | | the tapas, pulpo (octopus) and other fresh |
| Everyone sets their own pace shepherded by | | | | seafood delights of Galicia. Sip delicious viño |
| well-marked arrows, signposts, or guidebooks | | | | tinto wines across Rioja, Burgos and the Mesa |
| from home. | | | | and delicate white wines poured at arm's length |
| This well-worn path wends its way through | | | | into pottery saucers in Galicia, most of which you'll |
| vineyards overflowing with grapes ready for | | | | never find at home. |
| harvest, among apple and pear orchards, across | | | | Whatever your motivation, villagers will often |
| fields thickly scented with thyme, past a mosaic | | | | surprise you with a "Buena Camino!" from their |
| checkered with fresh vegetables, over the | | | | modest doorstep or second floor window, or may |
| desolate, windswept meseta or plateau. Climbing | | | | graciously fill your water bottle. Peregrinos have |
| thousands of feet to secluded mountain villages, | | | | trod this path for a thousand years and these |
| such as El Cebreiro featuring traditional Celtic | | | | towns have a long tradition of hosting travelers. |
| round stone houses, it descends to tree-lined | | | | You'll still see bags of water hanging over the |
| Galician pastures with hórreos, elaborate | | | | doorways of some inns, symbolic of the days |
| brick grain storage bins on stilts with crosses on | | | | when innkeepers washed the feet of pilgrim |
| the roofs. | | | | guests. |
| The refugios are located in unusual settings, from | | | | Walking the Camino can take as little as 26-30 |
| historic 16th century convents to hospitals run | | | | days if you plan to do it in one stretch. Or can |
| today by the Knights of Malta to modern prefab | | | | take as long as you wish. Many hike two weeks |
| complexes. While all provide basic dormitory-style | | | | one year and two the next. Bicyclists typically |
| bunk bed accommodations and showers, some | | | | spend two weeks on the trail. |
| may include common kitchens, pay phones, | | | | When you finally arrive in the holy city of |
| laundry facilities or internet-connected computers. | | | | Santiago de Compostela, an emotionally charged |
| They hold 20-800 travelers each night. Charges | | | | finale is to attend the Peregrino Mass, featuring |
| are modest, from $4-6 a night to a simple | | | | the world's largest incense burner, the |
| donation. Bedding is usually not provided, so it's a | | | | Botafumeiro, swung nearly at ceiling level by eight |
| good idea to bring a sleeping bag. | | | | men, back and forth across the transept. Then |
| People trek the Camino year round. Summers are | | | | join the throngs in paying a reverent visit to the |
| crowded at the refugios and are very hot, with | | | | apostle St. James' tomb. Later, with your Pilgrim's |
| little or no shade in many sections of the trail. | | | | Credential filled with stamps from all of your |
| Spring or fall treks are best. The weather is | | | | refugio stays and church visits in hand, go to the |
| better and the crowds are fewer. Fall | | | | Office of Peregrinos to receive your official |
| temperatures range from 80 to 40 degrees (F) | | | | Compostela, certificate, as proof of your |
| and winters can be quite cold with snow. Plan on | | | | pilgrimage. |
| rain any time of year, but especially in verdant | | | | As always, it is the journey that matters, not the |
| Galicia, Spain's equivalent to America's Pacific | | | | destination. Remember this and with any luck you'll |
| Northwest. | | | | find whatever answers you seek on this or any |
| So who walks the Camino de Santiago today? | | | | journey. |
| Thousands of travelers of every age from | | | | |