Northeast Spain: An Education in the Gastronomy of Catalonia

p>Catalan cuisine encompasses influences fromcinnamon and parsley.
Spanish, French and Italian cooking.Girona offers a diversity of eateries, from
The province of Girona boasts one of the mostswanky establishments with imaginative gourmet
carefully preserved cooking traditions. It bringsmenus, to raw standing-room-only taverns where
together the Pyrenees and the Mediterranean tofamished workers amass to satisfy their
create the concept of mar y montañaravenous appetites.
mar i muntanya (sea and mountains). TheFrom the traditional concerns serving age-old
geographical diversity puts everything into theauthentic recipes, to the prestigious Michelin guide
melting pot: meat, poultry, game, fruit andrestaurants; Girona manages to cram a
vegetables. This is a cuisine that likes to mixspectacular assortment into a relatively small area.
flavours, sweet and salty or fish and meat.Eating out in Girona - recommended dishes
Shopping for food in Girona / What to BuyOnce you've found a restaurant that suits you
Shops open at 9.30am then close for lunch,(and there are many to choose from in Girona
re-opening again at 5pm until 8pm.city), you might like to try:
The supermarkets (Champion on the way into LaStarters
Bisbal from Girona offers magnificent cheese, fish,Pa amb tomaquet
and wines) remain open all day apart fromThick sliced country bread rubbed with tomato,
Sundays when they generally close all day.olive oil, garlic and salt and sometimes covered
The Autonomous Catalan Government, thewith slices of Serrano ham.
Generalitat de Catalunya, established aEscalivada amb anxoves (baked vegetable salad
'Denomination of Quality' Products included underwith anchovies)
this system are the apples of Girona and theThis typically Catalan vegetable dish is
anchovies of L'Escala.accentuated by the renowned anchovies from
Other notable products to buy in this region areL'Escala. Tomatoes, aubergines, onions, peppers
the many types of Catalan Sausage (Botifarra,and courgettes all thrown into the pot along with
Fuet, llonganissa, peltruc), wild mushrooms, maturegarlic and a carefully selected bunch of herbs.
cheese and goat or sheep's milk cream cheese,Main course
plus fruits, jams and preserves.Graellada de peix i marisc (grilled fish and seafood)
Eating at home: a seasonal guideIf you like fish and seafood, this is the dish to
Spring: Savour the tastes of spring with anorder. It's a platter of delights: usually gambas
omelette of courgettes, aubergines, garlic,(large prawns), calamars (squid), rap (monkfish),
artichokes and wild asparagus, or try tenderLluç (hake), and sometimes polp (octopus).
spring lamb with minted peas and Morels (wildIt's a 'dry' dish - no sauce - but usually served
mushrooms). (Ask the butcher for the youngestwith slices of lemon and often Ali-Oli.
lamb they have, this is the best.) There areBotifarra amb mongetes (sausage with white
specialist pork butchers that sell mouth-wateringbeans)
suckling pig, but you'll need to order it in advance.The Catalan sausage Botifarra is the UK
The fishing season starts around May, so pass byequivalent of 'black pudding' It's a melt in the
the fishmonger and see what delights grace themouth meat that is enhanced by garnish of beans.
stalls. Cook up a magnificent suquet, the traditionalDessertBunyols / (fritters)
Costa Brava fisherman's dish made from aThese are fritters traditionally eaten at Christmas
selection of fish, usually hake (Merluza /but also enjoyed by tourists throughout the year.
Lluç) and monkfish (Rap / Rape) boiled in aThey are made from dough with a hint of
thick broth and sofrito, garnished with musselsaniseed, deep-fried then drenched in a brown
(mejillones/musclos) and served in a 'cazeula'sugar, cinnamon, and guava syrup.
(earthenware dish).Crema cremada (caramelized custard cream)
Summer: Fiesta season! The season that bringsNo visit to Catalonia is complete without trying
the mar i muntanya / mar y montaña (seathis dessert. Catalan cream can be described as
and mountains) concept into its own. Try Chickencrème brullee - creamy custard with a
with lobster, the Costa Brava classic. It seems ancrisp caramel topping. Catalan creams are
unusual combination, but you'll soon appreciate theflavoured with lemon zest and are traditionally
enjoyable mixture of flavours. In Girona there areserved in an earthenware dish.
chicken specialists that can recommend not onlyGastronomic Seasons
which parts of the chicken you should use forThroughout the year, Girona celebrates its
particular dishes, but can also offer expert advicerenowned gastronomy with a series of
on cooking methods and recommendedGastronomic Seasons which involve the promotion
accompaniments (guarnición / guarnicio).of special menus in selected restaurants, cooking
Another masterpiece and probably one of thedemonstrations and general awareness-raising
most unusual in the Catalan cookbook is thepublicity.
Estartit stew of sausage, rabbit, shrimp and fish,Early in the year from January to March,
called 'Sea and heaven'.Palafrugell celebrates the sea urchin with La
Autumn: The hunting season and that of the wildGaroinada. From February to March, you are
mushroom, of which there are many (see guideinvited to enjoy 'Peixopalo', the cod cuisine, in Sant
below). Salads and vegetables make popularFeliu de Guixols, Platja d'Aro, Santa Cristina d'Aro
autumn meals. Combine this with fish and tryand Llagostera.
esqueixada (salt cod salad) as a freshIn the same towns during April, stews laced with
palate-stimulating starter. During this season morepulses like Broad Beans and Peas are highlighted
so than any other, you'll see the streets lined withas the cuisine of the month.
stall upon stall of succulent vegetables, all waitingFrom April to June, The famous Palamós
to be chopped and roasted in olive oil, garlic andprawns are celebrated in Sant Antoni and
herbs for the perfect Escalivada, Tumbet orPalamós, and during the same period, the
Xamfaina. Add this to a dish of oven-roasted vealCuisine of the Rock Fish is honoured in Begur.
for a hearty meal. Panellets are rich almondIn Sant Feliu de Guixols, Platja d'Aro, Santa
biscuits made in every household in Catalonia toCristina and Llagostera, La Cuina del Peix Blau
celebrate the eve of All Saints Day. They areGanso sees rice specialities and Suquet (stew) of
accompanied by roasted chestnuts and matureoily fish celebrated and in September, the Cuisine
wine and can be kept for a long time, so make aof the Cim-i-Tomba, a traditional local fisherman's
big batch!dish of fish and potatoes in an ali-oli sauce, sees
Winter: Warming meals, soups and winterseveral restaurants take part in promoting the
vegetables like turnips, cabbage and parsnips.traditional culinary values.
Snails and truffles are a winter delicacy, as areFrom October to December, the Celebration of
the sea urchins celebrated during the seasonalthe Lobster takes places in Sant Antoni de
gastronomic feast from January to March. ForCalonge. Also in October, when the Girona sport
Christmas, Escudella i carn d'olla is the dish of theof mushroom picking gets underway, La Cuina del
day. This is a Catalan soup made with the famousBolet involving specialities made with local wild
pilota, a meaty 'dumpling' made'of parsley,mushrooms gets started in Sant Feliu de Guixols,
breadcrumbs and egg. The stew probably hasPlatja d'Aro, Santa Cristina and Llagostera.
more ingredients than any other in the wholeMar y montaña: from sea to mountain; the
country: veal, bacon, beef, chicken, pig's ear andcuisine of Girona is as diverse as it's cities, towns
trotters, pork, white and black butifarra, ham andand coastal resorts. Go there, sample a diversity
marrow bone, chickpeas, beans, potatoes,of scenic wonders, and match them with a
cauliflower, egg, turnip, carrot, garlic, flour, pepper,multiplicity of gastronomic delights.