Naukluft Hiking Trail Namibia - 8 Days Through Wondrous Desolation

Imagine a place so remote that you do not seeantelope such as Eland or Kudu grazing on the
another human being for days. Imagine a trailsparse grass and vegetation.
through desolate valleys, over mountains andThe Die Valle overnight shelter is surrounded on
across large flat plains of sand, rocks and tufts ofthree sides by mountains, and the sun tends to
dry grass. The Naukluft Hiking Trail in Namibiaset rather early behind these mountains. Water is
takes you through such a place.left here in a small water tanker which may not
It all starts at an old house perched on top of acontain much water especially at the end of the
small hill in what is known as the Namib-Nauklufthiking season, so washing is very limited on this
Park in South Western Namibia. Hikers Haven isday.
the base camp of this incredible trail. Here one canDay six tends to be the longest and most difficult
enjoy one last beer, grilled steak and warmof the whole trail. Even though it is only 16km
shower. There after follow 8 days of carrying along, one spends most of the day going up.
heavy backpack through some of the mostImmediately after leaving the Die Valle overnight
beautiful and desolate areas Namibia has to offer.shelter, there is a 200m vertical climb to the top
Normally one needs to get up at about 5 in theof a waterfall. There after one follows a gorge
morning to be able to hit the trail by 7. Day one isand stream that feeds this waterfall for most of
no exception, and covers a distance of 14km.the day, climbing ever upwards.
There is a lovely lookout point at "Panorama" asIt is along this gorge that one comes across
one starts rising up into the mountains a fewsome interesting geological formations called Tufa.
kilometers into the hike. Spend some time hereTufa is a sedimentary rock containing a lot of
and enjoy the view of the plain below.carbonates that are deposited by means of
From here the trail steadily rises higher up into thewater. It often forms at waterfalls or streams.
Naukluft Mountains. A good spot for lunch isHere in this gorge, the Tufa looks like a gigantic
"Fontein Kloof". There are some large trees forsolidified waterfall. Higher up one comes across a
shade and the spring usually flows.huge fig tree whose roots run all along a small cliff
As with most of the overnight shelters on thisface.
trail, the shelter at "Putte" for tonight is merely aOnce on top of the gorge, there is a small flat
square stone structure with a wall about 1.2mplateau to cross before starting the long descent
high, over which a tin roof is supported by somealong an old jeep track to the Tufa overnight
steal pipes. The floor is gravel. Approximatelyshelter. Be careful at the bottom of the track as
150m from the shelter is a borehole with a bigthe shelter is almost hidden amongst some
flywheel that needs to be turned for water.bushes to the left. Water is again supplied in the
Day two is 15km in length and takes one into theform of a borehole next to a dried out stream
famous Ubusis Kloof or ravine. The descent intobed about 150m from the shelter.
the ravine is accomplished with the aid of aDay seven covers 14km and takes one to the
number of chains, some of which are up to 30mhighest, and usually the coldest point of the hike
in length and act as aids down the cliff faces. Asat Kapokvlakte.
one descends further down, a geological timeFrom the Tufa overnight shelter, the trail crosses
capsule is exposed in the layers of rock to onessome very large boulders as it heads in the
sides. The scenery is quite breathtaking.direction of the mountains again. At the base of
Ubusis hut is the only "normal" accommodation onthe mountains that eventually lead up to
this trail. This hut used to be a small vacationKapokvlakte, there are some chains to help one
home many years ago when the area stillup some of the more difficult cliff faces.
consisted of farms. Water is supplied by meansOnce at the top, the trail follows a steadily rising
of a wind pump and borehole.dried out stream bed until it reaches the top at
Day three takes one back out of Ubusis Kloof theWorld's View. The name is very appropriate, as
way one went down the day before. At the top,one can see for many kilometers into the
once one reaches Bergpos, the trail turns duedistance. It's a good place to stop for awhile and
north across Kudu Plains. This day is only 12kmadmire the view across the plains below, and to
long and is considered the easiest of all the days.the mountains on the other side. From here the
At the end of the Kudu Plains lies the Adlerhorstterrain is fairly flat and the going easy.
overnight shelter, which can be reached by theThe Kapokvlakte overnight shelter is usually
early afternoon. This leaves plenty of time toreached by early afternoon. The shelter is hidden
admire the scenery and relax a bit. Water is againbehind a clump of bushes which are virtually the
supplied via a borehole with a handle on top of theonly larger vegetation in the area. The rest of the
pipe.plateau is covered in short grass and the
When we got there, the opening of the boreholeoccasional small bush. Kapokvlakte can get very
pipe was covered in hundreds of beescold at night, and the use of a down feather
desperately waiting for someone to turn thesleeping bag is a must here.
handle and pump some water out for them.The last day has finally arrived. By now everyone
Nobody got stung even once. It seems as if theyis dreaming of fat steaks and beer, but there is
realized that the humans coming to this placestill a 16km slog ahead. A few kilometers across
were their only hope of getting some water.the top of the plateau, and the trail makes its long
The fourth day tends to be a bit tricky, and isdescent along a winding gorge down to Hikers
quite long at 17km. The tricky part comes whenHaven.
one has to descend a waterfall in a dried out riverAs the day gets warmer one can hear more and
bed with the help of a long chain. The angle of themore insects and other small creatures in this
rocks makes this a difficult descent.lonely gorge. Be careful of picking up rocks. Very
Further on there is another steep descent downoften there are scorpions hiding underneath them.
the side of a mountain of loose slate. In the pastAs one gets lower down the trail, there are small
this has been the cause of injuries to hikerspools with large trees on the sides which make
slipping on the slate.for good resting spots. A few hundred meters
The Tsams-Ost overnight shelter contains a largefrom Hikers Haven, there is a camp site. Here
water tank on a perch that is supplied with waterone may come across the first other humans
from a borehole and wind pump. It is possible toagain after having spent so many days in the
have a cold shower standing underneath the tank.wilderness. By now you may also spot the roof
The next day, day five, starts off with a stiffof the old house at Hikers Haven. Just a few
climb up the mountain behind the Tsams-Osthundred meters more and one is back. What a
overnight shelter, and covers another 17km.time it had been!
Some hours later one reaches Melkbos Plain. ThisNow one can finally get a hot shower again! For
plain involves many kilometers of marching alongthose that brought vacuum packed meat and
sandy tracks and through dried out river beds. Itmanaged to keep it cool in their cars over this
is here that one is most likely to see herds ofperiod, there will be a feast tonight!