| Amboseli National Park is the most popular park | | | | snap it yourself) |
| after Masai Mara, mainly because of the | | | | Erosion and grass die-off is having a dramatic |
| spectacular backdrop of Africa's highest peak, Mt. | | | | effect at Amboseli; the rains seem to provide |
| Kilimanjaro, which broods over the southern | | | | less relief every season, and it's only a matter of |
| boundary of the park. Cloud cover can render the | | | | years before the lack of food makes the animals |
| mountain's massive bulk invisible for much of the | | | | move on. It's important for vehicles to stick to |
| day, but the two lodges in the centre of the par | | | | the defined tracks to avoid making things any |
| are perfectly placed for those classic early | | | | worse. Hopefully others will follow suit and the |
| morning views. | | | | grasslands that drew all these animals here in the |
| As well as being a prominent part of the country' | | | | first place can be preserved. |
| tourist portfolio, the park has been at the centre | | | | Amboseli: Distance, Hours, Roads and Means of |
| of some controversy since president Kibaki's 2005 | | | | transport |
| decision to downgrade it from a national park to a | | | | Amboseli Air safari |
| national reserve, transferring its administration | | | | Air Kenya has daily flights between Wilson Airport |
| from the KWS to local authorities. Supporters | | | | in Nairobi and Amboseli (US$88, one hour), |
| claim that the move rightfully returns control of | | | | departing from Nairobi at 7.30am. Return flight |
| the land to the Masai community, but many | | | | leaves Amboseli at 8.30am. Mombasa Air Safari |
| conservation bodies have argued that it's simply a | | | | flies here from Mombasa and Diani (US$220) on |
| political move aimed at securing the Maasai vote, | | | | the coast. |
| and that degazetting parks is an illegal move that | | | | You'll need to arrange with one of the lodges or a |
| could undermine Kenya's whole wildlife | | | | tour company in Kenya for a ticket and a vehicle |
| preservation system. In the wake of the crushing | | | | to meet you at the airstrip. |
| defeat on the constitution referendum, Kibaki's | | | | Amboseli by car & 4X4 |
| next move on this issue will doubtlessly come | | | | The usual approach to Amboseli is via Namanga. |
| under heavy scrutiny. | | | | The road is sealed and in surprisingly good |
| At 392sqkm, Amboseli is a small park and lacks | | | | condition from Nairobi to Namanga; the 75km dirt |
| the profusion of animal species found in the Masai | | | | road to the Meshanani Gate is pretty rough but |
| Mara, but as the landscape provides limited cover | | | | passable (allow around four hours from Nairobi). In |
| for wildlife you have a good chance of seeing | | | | the dry season it's also possible to enter through |
| some of the larger predators. The vegetation | | | | Kitirua Gate, but this is a bumpy old road and it's |
| here used to be much denser, but rising salinity, | | | | hard to follow. The track branches right off the |
| damage by elephants and irresponsible behaviour | | | | main Amboseli road after about 15km. |
| by safari vehicles has caused terrible erosion. | | | | Some people also enter from the east via |
| Amboseli can turn into a real dustbowl in the dry | | | | Amboseli-Tsavo West road, although this track is |
| season. | | | | in a bad way and shouldn't be considered in a |
| Buffaloes, lions, gazelles, cheetahs, wildebeest, | | | | conventional vehicle. During the 1990's there were |
| hyena, jackals, warthogs, zebras, Masai giraffes | | | | bandit attacks in this area, so vehicles have to |
| and baboons are all present, but the last few | | | | travel together, accompanied by armed guards. |
| black rhinos were moved to Tsavo West in 1995 | | | | Convoys leave from the Tsavo turn off, near the |
| after a sustained period of poaching. In the | | | | Sopa Lodge, at around 7am, 9am and 1pm. Allow |
| permanent swamps of Enkongo Narok and | | | | 2 ½ hrs to cover the 94 km from |
| Olokenya, large elephant herds can be seen | | | | Amboseli to the Chyulu Gate at Tsavo West. |
| grazing with Mt. Kilimanjaro in the background, | | | | Self-drivers will need a 4WD to make the most |
| probably the definitive Kenyan wildlife shot (and | | | | of the park. Petrol is available at the Serena and |
| available on innumerable postcards if you can't | | | | Sopa lodges. |