Guide to Lake Iseo, Lombardy, Italy

IntroductionFine Arts, a gallery with paintings, sculptures and
Lake Iseo, also called Lake Sebina, is the fourthceramics. Count Luigi Tadini began this collection in
largest lake in the Lombardy region of Italy. Thehis town house in Crema. The Tadini familys only
lake was formed by the Valcamonica Glacier, andson died in Lovere in 1799 where they often took
is 24 kilometres long and up to 5 kilometres wide.holidays. Count Tadini provided the funds to built
This width is not always obvious as the largestthe Palazzo, in memory of his son.
lake island in Europe, Monte Isola, sits in the centreThe English writer and poet Lady Mary Wortley
of the lake. The lake is situated just north ofMontagu lived in a villa on the outskirts of Lovere
Brescia and Bergamo, this being reflected in thein the 1740s. Lady Mary is said to have written
fact that it is administered on the western bankmany letters to her daughter in the villa garden,
by the Bergamo district council, and on the eastand been inspired to write poetry by the beauty
bank by the Brescia district council. The Riverof her surroundings. In fact she declined an
Oglio, flowing down from the Val Camonica andinvitation to the Venice carnival saying, there are
entering between Lovere and Pisogne, mainlyplenty things to do in this village which, by the
feeds the Lake from the north. The Val Camonicaway, is one of the most beautiful that exists.
has thermal spas and prehistoric rock carvings. AtLady Mary came to live in Italy in 1741,
the southern end of the lake lies the Torbiere, asupposedly for health reasons, although it is
peat bog and now a nature reserve. South of thisthought that she no longer wanted to live with
lies the Franciacorta valley, producing the besther husband. Lady Mary had travelled to Turkey
sparkling wine in Italy.as wife of the British Ambassador and there she
On the eastern bank, a few kilometres up fromcame across the practice of inoculation against
the lake, is the Natural Reserve of the Pyramidssmallpox. She had her own children inoculated but
of Zone, a unique formation of pillars created bywas never given proper credit for introducing the
uneven glacial erosion. The sixty-kilometrepractice in Britain. Lady Marys daughter married
perimeter lakeside is dotted with villages andLord Bute, who became prime minister of Britain
towns, the main ones being Iseo, Sarnico, Lovere,in 1762, a year after Lady Marys death.
Pisogne and Marone. These towns are full ofLovere has another literary connection in Georges
historical and cultural interest, yet it is pleasant toSand, the French novelist, who wrote of Lake
stroll along the promenade or linger over a drink inIseo to a friend in London, Come, I have found a
a café. There are a variety of waterlovely place to live. Georges Sands real name was
sports available on the Lake and fishing is popularAurore Dupin, but she had taken a mans name as
with the locals, tench being the prized catch.it was not deemed suitable for ladies to be
There is a good selection of walking and cyclingnovelists in the 19th century, and she often
trails, and in Winter there is skiing north of Lakedressed as a man. She had a long-standing affair
Iseo in the Presolano area.with Chopin. After their break up in 1847 she
Unique pointswrote the novel Lucrezia Floriana. The romance
The fact that Lake Iseo is not well known outsidebetween a young Italian noble and an older lady is
Italy and therefore less touristy makes it moreset on Monte Isola. It is said that this novel
appealing. One of its biggest attractions is Monteinspired many visits by ladies seeking romance to
Isola, the largest inland lake island in Europe, whichthe area!
is easily reached by ferry and with no cars on theIn 1854 Lovere joined the industrial revolution,
island it is very peaceful, making it ideal forwith the development of the first large steel
walking or cycling. There are also the Pyramids ofcomplex in the region. Lovere prospered as an
Zone, where the erosion of glacial deposits hasindustrial centre until the 1980s, but this has left a
left pinnacles of earth up to ten metres high. Onscar on the landscape.
the western lakeshore are the bogns of CastroValle Camonica
and Zorzino, sheets of limestone that plunge intoAs you head round the north of the lake, you
the lake. North of the lake in Val Camino you canmay wish to have a slight detour to visit the Valle
see hundreds of prehistoric rock carvings at theCamonica. This valley is 90km long and contains
National Park of Rock Engravings and to the south41 towns and villages, making it the longest valley
of the lake is the Torbiere peat bog andin Italy. The healing powers of the waters of the
Franciacorta, the area where the renownedspa town of Boario Terme were written about as
sparkling wine is produced.early as 1497 by the naturalist Paracelsus. The
Getting thereItalian writer Manzoni was a regular visitor, living to
Nearest airportsthe age of 88. Nearby at the Capo di Ponte is the
Bergamo (Orio Serio)National Rock Engraving Park, with prehistoric rock
Bresciacarvings, dating from Neolithic times through to
Veronathe Iron Age. The carvings relate to the history
Milan (Malpensa)of the Camuni tribe throughout this period. It is an
Milan (Linate)amazing site, containing thousands of figures: an
All of these airports are within reasonableenormous stone history book. One of the most
travelling distance to Lake Iseo. Most internationalcommon carvings is that of the Camonic rose,
flights come into Milan Malpensa, although the lowwhich is now the emblem of the Lombardy region.
cost carrier Ryanair uses Bergamo and Brescia.On this site is the Archeopark, an open-air
Car: travelling on the Milan Venice motorway (A4)interactive park where you can try out various
to go to the West bank Of Lake Iseo you woulddaily prehistoric activities e.g. lighting a fire,
come off at Sarnico junction and on to theshooting with a bow and arrow and grinding corn
SS649. To reach Iseo town, travelling east on theand baking bread. The Archeodromo is a realistic
A4, you would also come off at Sarnico exit, andconstruction of a Neolithic village with six huts
travelling west on the A4 you would turn off atperched on a rocky hill. Some school groups stay
Brescia up the SS510.in the village for a few days to get an authentic
Public transport: There are regular connections bytaste of prehistoric life. Personally speaking I think
bus and train to Brescia from all the nearbyId rather go back to my hotel bed and shower.
airports, then connections from Brescia by busThe traditional art of woodcarving continues in this
and train to Iseo. The train continues up the eastarea. The Cammunian Wood Handicraft
bank to Pisogne.Workshops in Boaria Terme, where all types of
Once you have reached Iseo the most relaxingobjects from religious ornaments to babies cribs
and picturesque option for getting around the lakeare produced, can be found in the area. A fusion
is the ferry.of modern and 16th century techniques are used
Guide to Lake Iseo, clockwise from Iseo town onto craft the goods.
the southern shores.PISOGNE
ISEO TOWNPisogne was an important centre in medieval
I am really fond of Iseo town; it has a relaxedtimes for commerce - a large weekly market
ambience, wide squares and a lovely promenadewas held there. The town had a ring of walls and
with a fantastic view of the lake and Monte Isola.a system of gates but not much is left standing
It is quite lively, mainly with Italian families andnow. In the Market Square you would be hung in
couples.a cage suspended from the tower for
Iseo was a business centre in Roman times, andnon-payment of taxes due to the bishop. Tax
it was an important port until the end of the 19thwas due on almost everything - fishing, hunting,
century. The hero of Italian unification, Garibaldi, ismilling, salt and iron. The bishops were forbidden
celebrated with a statue and fountain in the mainto inflict any punishment that would cause loss of
square. Also on this square is the Palazzo Vantini,blood, so humiliation was the next best option to
built in the 1833s and now used as the town hall.extract their dues. In 1518 eight women accused
The Pieve di S. Andrea dates back to the 12thof witchcraft were imprisoned in the Widow
century, and is distinctive because of its cuspedTower before being burned.
Romanesque bell tower. The 11th century CastelloJust off Market Square is Santa Maria Assunta
Oldofredi was recently restored and now houseschurch, which contains a 150-year-old pipe organ.
the public library.The facade of the Palazzo Fanzango is adorned
Just south of the town are the peat bogs;with medallions depicting the characters from the
Torbiere del Sebino is now a nature reserve. Lakebook I Promessi Sposi (The Betrothed) written by
Iseo was around 10 metres deeper in the past,Manzoni. This is an important piece of Italian
but erosion of the bed of the River Oglio at theliterature, telling the tale of how love triumphed
southern outflow meant that the lake level beganfor two peasants despite the efforts of a local
to drop, cutting off a shallow basin, whichtyrant. The book also has a vivid description of
gradually became a large marsh with peatythe spread of the Plague in 17th century Milan.
deposits. During the industrialisation of the 19thAt the end of the 17th century, Pisogne was
century local factories began using the peat as ahome to the notorious bandit Giorgi Vicario. There
source of energy, eventually excavating most ofwas not much brotherly loyalty between the
the peat deposits. Imagine digging up the peatbandits as Vicario tracked down and killed
using a caged spade with a five-metre handle!Giuseppe Techi for a reward. Techis head was
Evidence of prehistoric settlement was founddelivered on a tray decorated with bay leaves to
during peat cutting: stone arrowheads, blades andthe authorities. A double whammy, a reward and
daggers dating from 5000 BC. Now the area is ofless competition locally!
great scientific interest and home to manyPisogne hosts the local festival of mushrooms and
species of bird and fish.chestnuts on the last Sunday in September.
The Franciacorta region, south of Iseo, hasMARONE
become well known for its sparkling wine. In theMarone is situated in a beautiful spot in a green
mid 1950s a young entrepreneur started to makevalley at the foot of Monte Guglielmo. There are
sparkling wine emulating the method using in theruins of a first century Roman villa, Co del Hela as
Champagne region of France. This means that theyou enter the town. On the lakeside is the
secondary fermentation of the wine occurs in theParrocchiale di tours, an 18th Century Baroque
bottle, a process which takes around two years.style church with a marble altar. Marone was well
Now this valley produces the legally protectedknown for production of woollen cloth and felt and
Franciacorta wine, assuring it has been hand madethe quarrying of dolomite. Nowadays tourism is
using the traditional champagne methods in one ofthe main industry.
the thirty wineries in the area. Visits to theA few kilometres uphill from Marone on the road
wineries and tasting sessions can be arranged.to Zone lie the Earth Pyramids. They are an
Wine lovers may wish to visit for the three daysamazing sight: thin spires of earth up to 30
in September for the Wine Festival, with tasting,metres high, with large granite masses perched
special meals and visits to cellars.on top almost like hats. The Pyramids are not
Villa Lechi, a Palladian style villa built in the 16thstatic as they can erode, causing the boulder to
century, can be visited by appointment (phonefall and gradually new pyramids are created.
392 706 30087 to arrange) Just west of ErbuscoOn the way to the Pyramids is the church of San
is the Oglio North Park, on the eastern banks ofGiorgio and on the outer sidewall are frescoes
the river.painted in the 15th century, including one of San
SARNICOGiorgio slaying the dragon.
Sarnico is the first resort heading west from Iseo.Further up the hill is the village of Zone. As you
It was originally a prehistoric stilt village, as itascend you can see what I initially thought was a
stands where the lakes narrows and once againski lift, above the road. It is in fact suspended
becomes the River Oglio. There are frescoescontainers, which carry the dolomite down from
dating from 1200 AD in the church San Nazario ethe Calarusso quarry. In some respects it
Rocca di Castione. You can still see ruinedreminded me of a Swiss alpine village; the air was
medieval ramparts.so fresh and crisp. There are two interesting
For some Sarnico is best known as the home ofchurches on the Piazza Almici: The octagonal 18th
the premier speedboat company Riva. One of thecentury Beata Veringe di Lourdes and the 17th
most fascinating aspects of the companys storycentury Parrocchiale S Giovanii Ballista, containing
to me is the journey of Pietro Riva from hiswooden works of art by Andrea Falconi. The
hometown of Lagio on the Lake Como to Sarnicofestival of honey is held in the town square at the
in 1842. The young Pietro was travelling to start abeginning of August. From Zone there are several
new job repairing boats in Sarnico; his 70-milewalking paths and, if you're feeling energetic, one
journey took him two days, travelling by boat,to the summit of Monte Guglielmo.
train and coach.MONTE ISOLA
His repairs were so successful that he was soonThe largest lake island in Europe is 3km long, rising
being commissioned to build boats. The boatto an elevation of 600m, and is sometimes
building business grew under Pietros son, Ernesto,referred to as the pearl of Iseo. Only public
who began produced boats powered by pistonservice four wheeled vehicles are allowed on the
engines.island. If you want to see more of the island you
In 1912 Ernestos son Serafino achieved a speedcan rent a bicycle or use the local bus. There is
of 24 kilometres an hour in a speedboat. Rivaalso the option to take the gentle level walk along
became a prestigious brand, sought by the richthe southern coast from the village of Peschiera
and famous as a status symbol. However you noMaraglio to Sensole and return on the ferry from
longer see speedboats on Lake Iseo becauseSensole. If you are feeling energetic you can visit
they were banned for environmental reasons inthe 13th century Il Santuario della Madonna della
1976!Cerinole, which is situated at the highest point of
Sarnico is home to the Bellini Gallery, a picturethe island.
gallery exhibiting around 150 pieces, mainly fromThe 14th Century Fortress Martinango is the
the period between the 16th and 18th centuries.ancestral home of the Olofredi family. It is one of
The Gallery is in the old part of the city and wasthe best-preserved forts in the region. It is
formerly a nunnery. Also on display are someunusual in that its highest tower is in the centre.
sculptures and furniture.The population of the island is around 1700, with
The Palazzo to Sarnico rail line winds along Ogliothose not employed in tourism working as
River. Volunteers reopened this line recently.fishermen, in boatyards or making nets. In fact,
TrenoBlu as it is known is often steam hauled.the nets for the goal posts of the 1982 Football
The trains run during the Summer. There are railWorld Cup were made locally. Guess what - Italy
connections from Bergamo and Milan.won the Cup that year! There are still numerous
Just outside Sarnico, heading east, stands thenaets, the typical wooden local fishing boats, to be
Faccononi villa, designed by one of Italys best Artseen. Some of the catch is left outside to dry in
Nouveau architects, Sommaruga, for the wealthythe sun in the traditional manner.
Faccanoni family. The villa on the lakeshoreYou can visit a traditional boatyard, Cantiere
exemplifies Sommarugas trademark Floreale style.Nautico in Peschiere Maraglio, and see the
RIVA DI SOLTOconstruction of the handmade wooden boats.
The stretch from Tavernola north constitutes theI think that Monte Isola is a charming, tranquil
most dramatic stretch of the west bank. Just tryplace to visit, still relatively peaceful and relaxing. It
to blot out the quarry at Tavernola! Riva is ais very thickly wooded, when you observe it
pretty fishing hamlet, full of arches and alleys. Thefrom the shore its hard to imagine being able to
old centre is up the hill at Zorzino. The Zorzinoreach the summit.
Bong, with its vertical slabs of limestone plungingOne of the big events on the island is the festival
Mount Clemo, creates its own enclosed bay.of Corzano, a hamlet that dates back to the
Further north is the Castro Bogn.1600s. This only takes place every five years.
LOVEREThere are regular ferries from several towns on
The Lovere area was occupied by the Gauls inthe lakeshore to the coastal villages in Monte Isola.
the Iron Age, and by the second century BC theSuggested Itineraries
Roman settlement began to take form.Day Trip:
Lovere still has ramparts remaining from its periodDriving: it is possible to drive round the lake with a
as a medieval fortified town. The oldest church isfew stops in one day from Milan, Brescia or
the 12th century Capell di San Martino. The townBergamo and see unique sights.
was famous in the 15th century as VenetianPublic transport: bus/train to Iseo, ferry trip from
textile town. Most of the output of woollen cloththere. Trains from Brescia operate every hour,
was sold in Germany and Austria. At the beginningand it is a half-hour journey to Iseo, and they also
of the 16th century there was a period of turmoil,go up to Pisogne, stopping at Sulzano and Sale
with periods of rule by the French, the HolyMarsino.
Roman Empire and the Spanish, which greatlyWeekend/Short stay (2-3 nights) you could either
disrupted the production and distribution of thebe based in Iseo, spending a day visiting Monte
cloth. There was more strife later that centuryIsola, one day visiting the west bank of the lake
with plagues and famines. By the 17th century theand one day on the east bank. An alternative
authorities had tackled the security problem ofwould be to tour the lake in a day and spend a
bandits and some Lombardy noblemen began today either in Bergamo or Verona.
travel to Lovere for their holidays. The Basilica ofIseo town would be a good base for day trips to
Santa Maria dates from the 15th century andthe cities of Bergamo, Verona, Venice, Brescia,
houses a 16th century organ case and frescoes.Vicenzia and Padova. Lake Garda and Lake Como
The lakeside Palazzo Tadini contains the School ofare both nearby.