| For centuries, the myths and legends of ancient | | | | more up-market, try the Nafplia Palace's Amimoni |
| Greece have drawn travelers to the legendary | | | | restaurant, and for a little taste of Italy drop by |
| Argolid in the Peloponnesus. More recently this | | | | Antica Gelateria di Roma, where Claudia and |
| fertile land of olive and orange groves has | | | | Marcello Ratio serve over 30 divine flavours of |
| become one of the country's leading wine regions, | | | | gelato and sorbet, made fresh on the premises. |
| centered around Nemea, famous for its | | | | As you wander the narrow streets, stop in at the |
| Agiorgitiko grape vines. Drive along the | | | | award-winning Peloponnesian Folklore Foundation |
| well-marked 'wine roads' and stop in for tastings | | | | with its wonderful collection of traditional |
| at the many wineries along the way. Your | | | | costumes from all over the country, and a special |
| destination is Nafplio, one of Greece's most | | | | exhibition on the production and use of natural |
| beautiful towns with its majestic castles, elegant | | | | fibres in Greece from 1835 to 1945. The museum |
| neoclassical architecture, and the indelible mark of | | | | also organizes periodic exhibitions and has an |
| Venetian and Turkish occupation in its medieval | | | | excellent gift shop. Nafplio is known for such |
| quarter. | | | | eccentric and eclectic shops as Metallagi, which |
| Exploring Nafplio is a journey through the layers | | | | showcases the jewelry designs of Panagioti |
| of its history. In ancient times it was the harbour | | | | Alexopoulos and Maria Koutsoudaki, and has an |
| for Argos. Abandoned by the Romans, the | | | | open atelier enabling visitors to view the works in |
| Byzantines later fortified the hilltop settlement of | | | | progress. |
| Akronafplia in the 12th century. In 1210 the town | | | | The Komboloi Museum also has a komboloy |
| fell to the Franks, and was later occupied | | | | workshop and retail store offering a wide variety |
| alternately by Venetians and Turks until the War | | | | of the traditional 'worry beads'. The lively Nafplio |
| of Independence, after which Nafplio served as | | | | nightlife is a popular weekend draw for foreign |
| the country's capital between 1829 and 1834. A | | | | visitors and locals alike. For romance, visit the |
| hike up the 900-plus steps to Palamidi Castle, built | | | | restaurant-bar Agnanti at the edge of town, with |
| by the Venetians, offers magnificent views of the | | | | tables along the pier and waves lapping at your |
| sea and town, as well as of the Bourtzi, a floating | | | | feet, or the Nautikos Omilos bar next door, and |
| island castle built for the protection of the port | | | | for a more trendy club scene, head far the Living |
| and to house the local executioner. Alternatively, | | | | Room, off Bouboulinas Square, where the |
| ascend to the Akronafplia ruins James Bond-style | | | | neighbourhood youth congregate. |
| by entering through the base of the hill, and taking | | | | Nafplio is also the perfect base for exploring two |
| the elevator to the foyer of the super-luxurious | | | | important archaeological sites: Mycenae (24 |
| Nafplia Palace. Built by a government initiative in | | | | kilometres away), described by Homer as 'rich in |
| the 1960's by Papagiannis & Co., the hotel | | | | gold', and Epidauros, with its superb theatre (30 |
| has recently renovated its bungalows to | | | | kilometres). Mycenae was excavated in the 1870s |
| extraordinary levels of opulence with private | | | | by Heinrich Schliemann, inspired by his obsession |
| swimming pools and stunning views. | | | | with the Iliad and the Odyssey. Wonder at the |
| Equally beautiful (and more reasonably priced) are | | | | Cyclopean masonry of its citadel (so massive it |
| the main rooms of the hotel which are being | | | | was said to have been built by the mythical |
| upgraded to provide the latest in technology and | | | | one-eyed giants) and the 'Lion Gate' with its two |
| modern amenities in this unique historical setting. | | | | rampant lions, Mycenae's symbol of power. |
| For a homier atmosphere seek out the Boron | | | | The most impressive tomb, the so-called |
| Hotel, a converted neoclassical mansion with | | | | 'Treasury of Atreus', dates to 1250 BC and |
| rooms with a sea view. When it's time for a | | | | originally contained such gold artifacts as death |
| swim, head down to the pebbled beach of | | | | masks, breastplates, jewelry and weapons, which |
| Arvanitia where Frankish fig trees, pines and | | | | are now in the archaeological museum in Athens. |
| oleanders line the edge of the turquoise waters. | | | | Epidauros was the site of the important sanctuary |
| Away from the cafe and taverna-lined harbour, | | | | of Asclepios, the god of healing and medicine, but |
| life centres around Plateia Syntagmatos, a grand | | | | is renowned for its splendid theatre, built in the |
| Venetian-style square with an archaeological | | | | early 3rd century BC. Set dramatically into the |
| museum containing local Mycenaean artifacts inside | | | | hillside, its remarkable acoustics allow even the |
| the old Venetian naval arsenal. Stop for coffee at | | | | drawing of a breath to be heard by a1112,000 |
| Cafe Kendrikon, or have a traditional lunch at Ellas | | | | spectators that the theatre can accommodate. |
| restaurant. In the back streets between the | | | | Plan to attend one of the classical dramas |
| harbour and the square is a cluster of tavernas | | | | performed here during the annual summer |
| on Staikopoulou, where real home-cooking can be | | | | festival, for a memorable moonlit experience |
| found at Vasilis and seafood with-a-view at | | | | accompanied by an orchestra of cicadas. |
| Savouras, right on the harbour. For something | | | | |