Exploring Ambarita Stone Chair Village

The stone chairs of Ambarita where tribal eldersled to the ancient Batak village where there is a
held council.row of traditional Toba Batak houses. As I
Ambarita is an ancient Batak tribal village onexamined the houses, which are still used today, I
Samosir Island, in Lake Toba. It is located anfind that many of them have zinc roofing,
hour's walk northwest from Tuk Tuk or about 20somewhat removing the romanticism I would
minutes by boat. I visited it together with a smallassociate with visiting this place. I suppose zinc
group of AsiaExplorers members.roofing would be more long lasting, although I
What makes Ambarita interesting, from anwould have preferred that the villagers retained
anthropological standpoint, is that during ancientthe original roofing which I assume should be ijuk
times the Toba Batak people of Ambaritathatch made from coconut fibre.
practised a form of carnibalism. What remainsFrom the row of traditional houses, we moved on
today is the cluster of stone chairs where theto view the stone chairs and the cage where
village elders held council. Whenever an enemyvictims are incarcerated. I am surprise to see that
was captured, the elders would invite the rulers ofthere is also a stone figure sitting on one of the
neighbouring villages to a conference, tochairs, and we had our photos taken with "him".
determine the fate of the victim. The victim isA short distance from the stone chairs is the
held in behind bars under one of the houses.place where victims meet their death. Our guide
If it is determined that the victim deserved death,demonstrated how the Bataks go about with the
he is taken to a dining table where he is clobberedprocedure. He also showed us the Batak calendar
to death. There is a boulder where the victim isand other tribal implements. On the hill above are
beheaded. After that, he is chopped up, his fleshthe graves of the tribal elders as well as a
is cooked with buffalo meat, and served to themonument to Raja Laga Siallagan. From the
tribal council, who completed the meal with aappearance of the monuments and graves, it
beverage of the victim's blood!appears that the tribal elders have embraced
We arrived at Ambarita by boat. From the jetty,Christianity, but I could not determine whether
we were first shown the tomb of Laga Siallagan,these Christian elders are the ones who were still
the first raja of Ambarita. From there, we werepractising carnibalism.