Argentina's Punta Tombo Penguin Rookery

Of the approximately 15 worldwide species ofAntarctica, penguins are able to survive low
penguins, five are prevalent in South America,temperature, icy climactic conditions by means of
among them the Gentoo, Rockhopper, King,their warm, dense, interlocking, waterproof
Macaroni, and Magellanic, the latter of whichfeathers and under-skin, insulating fat layers, all of
comprise the largest group and can be viewed atwhich serve to create excessive, unwanted heat
the Punta Tombo Penguin Rookery on theduring extended swims. In order to counteract
eastern coast of Argentina.this condition, upon exiting the water they utilize a
Access, via Trewel, requires an Argentineanprocess called "thermo-regulation," or
domestic flight or cruise ship stop in Puerto"heat-dumping," at which time they channel
Madryn, followed by a two-and-a-half hour drive,excessive amounts of blood to the flippers, which
by rental car or sightseeing tour, to the actual"flush" like humans, temporarily changing their
rookery.colors.
During an early-2007 trip, I made this veryPunta Tombo, with 175,000 pairs, is the world's
sea-and-land excursion. My motorcoach, one oflargest breading penguin colony. During
five making the journey, left the pier and crossedearly-September, from the 10th to the 15th, the
the bridge toward National Route 3, the mainmales return to the area, refurbishing their nests
highway connecting Buenos Aires in the north withfrom the previous year, whereafter the females
Ushuaia in the south. Traversing Chubut, one ofarrive and reunite with them, provided that the
Patagonia's provinces, it passed flat, dry,last mating had been a successful one. During the
scrub-blanketing steppe topography characteristicsecond half of the month, they court and two
of the coast, whose low, dome-shaped plantslarge eggs are subsequently laid in October, which
have adapted themselves to the dry climate,produce the first babies after a 40-day incubation
extreme temperatures, and constant windsperiod. Because the chicks are born with an initial
created by the Andes Mountains which inhibitthin, gray plumage to permit easy transfer of
annual rainfall to between six and 12 inches.warmth from the parents, they are unable to
Passing through Trewel, a town settled by themove very far form them until the new year,
Welsh where traditional afternoon tea is stillrequiring the parents themselves to take turns
served and the second-largest in the area with itsventuring to sea to obtain food. They take the
own regional airport, the coach threaded its wayexact same path everyday.
through the low-elevation White Hills, whichBetween January and February, when the early
appeared like the Badlands of South Dakota, andplumage has molted off, the baby penguins begin
intercepted the dry, dusty, gravel surface oflearning how to hunt for food and they take their
Provincial Route 1. Indigenous South Americanfirst swims, testing the water with one webbed
wildlife, almost camouflaged by the low scrub,foot at a time, just like human children.
included the mara and the guanaco, the SouthThe cycle now reverses: for a two- to four-week
American equivalent of the camel.period, the parents feed in the ocean, consuming
Ultimately entering the gate of a private sheepfar in excess of their normal diets, in order to
farm, it covered the final 39 kilometers to theprepare them for the molting period from March
rookery, itself on the Atlantic where the hills roseto April, during which time they lose their old
from the predominantly flat expanses, completingfeathers and regenerate new ones. Because this
its 170-kilometer drive from Puerto Madryn.outer covering is not waterproof, they are unable
A one-kilometer walk over a gravel trail led to theto return to sea, and must fast on their reserves
penguin colony.until the process is complete.
Evolution has created a penguin body design whichAt the end of the breeding season, penguins
so precisely matches its dual-parameter,migrate from the Patagonian coasts and the
diametrically opposed lifestyle of feeding at sea,Falklands to islands off of Brazil for the
yet breeding on land, that no human engineerfive-month period from April to September.
would have ever emulated it. These diverse seaNumerous penguins had been viewed during my
birds, with hydrodynamic bodies, possess sleek,one-kilometer walk, but their gray,
extended legs, not unlike the camber of anrock-resembling skins and their semi-hidden
aircraft's wing, to minimize resistance during bothlocations, in their recessed dirt burrows beneath
area plunges and extended swims. Their twothe low dome plants, had initially rendered them
short legs provide walking capability on land, yetundetectable. Crossing a wooden footbridge,
reduce drag in the ocean, where they inducebelow which a multitude of them posed toward
turns, much like rudders. Their flippers, also likethe hot sun, and following a winding, climbing dirt
modified airplane wings, propel them beneath thepath, I almost kicked two large, gray, initially
water surface and, coupled with their compact,perceived rocks on either side. Both, it turned out,
"fusiform" body shapes, permit rapid speeds. Ahad been penguins, which have no innate fear of
one-minute dive, for example, takes them 12humans.
meters down. Contrastively, their dense bonesThe lava rock outcrop at the end of the trail
enable them to remain submerged; otherwise,overlooking the beach and the Atlantic Ocean had
they would float, buoyantly, to the surface.sprung from volcanic activity 120 million years ago.
Feeding off of small, schooling fish, crustaceans,The gray gravel beach, littered with thousands of
and Antarctic krill, which number in the billions inpenguins, led directly into the ocean at a very
South Pole waters, they are able to target preynarrow angle, the very "threshold" to their
with their razor-sharp bills and retain anythingsustenance. It was from this water that they
caught with their tongue- and palette-extendingobtained the food to feed their chicks and
"spines," which ensure that ingested food cannotre-initiate the life cycle each and every year.
reverse its direction and escape back to theFilled with observations, thoughts, and emotions, I
water.turned and retraced my path back to the
Living in the south hemisphere, particularly inmotorcoach, leaving "their" world for "mine.
Argentina, Chile, the Falkland Islands, and