Adventure Travel In Peru - Climbing El Misti

Sitting on top of the world, looking down onseemed a long ways above us. Again it was a
creation...fairly easy trail, not too much sand (unlike the trail
I don't remember the rest of the song and wefrom my previous attempt) and enough large
were over 10,000 feet short of the top of therocks to make it interesting, but also harder to
world but it was a pretty good view anyway.see the trail. By this time I was deeply regretting
Finally, a dream of about two years wasmy forgetting my gloves as I hurriedly packed
completed. I made it to the top of El Misti, thefor the trip but Jason said his hands were warm
volcano right outside of Arequipa, Peru, that hadenough and let me use his - thanks Jason!
been calling my name since I first saw it aboutAbout the time it got light, we caught up to two
two years before. I tried to climb it as a day hikeother groups that had started earlier but were
then but failed due to a very late start and notclimbing very slow. One of the guides asked if one
being used to the altitude, reaching only about 15,of his team members could follow us up so Steve
500 feet. I still think it can be done as a day hikejoined us, again a very good match as we were
so that is a future goal.all climbing at the same slow steady speed, taking
I had been waiting eagerly for my friends Jasonvery short breaks every so often. We soon lost
and Lisa, SCARAB (Southern California Adventuresight of those below us and never saw them
Racing Buddies) members from Los Angeles, toagain until we got back down to their camp;
get to here. We had been communicating by emailunfortunately they had to turn back and were not
for months as they were on a round the worldable to reach the summit. When we were about a
trip and we wanted to get together when theyhalf hour away, we could see a large group
came through Peru. Our schedules kept changingstanding on the summit. They had gone up a
but at the last minute they meshed and we wereshorter route on the backside; we met them later
able to meet a couple of times in Arequipa. Iafter they had explored the crater. We finally got
arranged the use of a Suzuki 4x4 and Jason andsome sunlight when we reached a saddle
I made plans to climb El Misti on Saturday andbetween the summit and the crater, which really
Sunday. Lisa decided to relax in Arequipa so wefelt good. We had been climbing up the dark side,
drafted her to be our chauffeur as it is not safeaway from the sun, which made it very cool but
to leave a vehicle at the trailhead. We did somewe were also treated to a great view of Misti
quick shopping, and after getting lost on the waycasting a shadow over miles of landscape when
to the trailhead, we arrived safely and werethe sun rose on the other side. At 8:55, after
ready to start hiking at 12:30 pm. We were toldcrossing a couple of small snow patches and a
that it was a five hour climb to the campsite butcouple of sandy stretches, we were on the
we were hoping it would be less because thatsummit at 19,100 feet, four hours and 10 minutes
would have meant arriving at camp about thefrom camp. We marveled at the huge iron cross,
time it got dark. I also realized that we were on aabout 20 feet high that was up there. It was
different trail than the one I had attempted twoconstructed in sections; each about three feet
years before so it was a totally new trail to melong. I couldn't have carried even one section up
(there are three routes up to the summit).there. We were hoping that it had been
We were well matched, my year of living athelicoptered up so that weren't totally put to
8,800 feet and hiking regularly at altitudes of overshame by the super humans it would have taken
12,000 feet made up for my age and Jason'sto carry all the pieces up there.
(relative) youth and three weeks of high altitudeAfter taking a lot of pictures of the almost unreal
hiking in Peru made up for his living at sea level inlandscape offered by the crater, black sand, light
L.A. We followed an easy trail up to the campsiterocks and snow, and a few more of neighboring
at about 15,000 feet, arriving there in three hours19,925 foot Chachani, we went down to the
and 10 minutes. We were glad that we hadn't leftsaddle and ate a light snack. Both of us were
earlier and had to just sit around in the cool wind.feeling good, no altitude problems but to keep it
This also gave us hope that the supposedly fivethat way we decided to forgo exploring the
to seven hour hike to the summit should be lesscrater and headed back down. We didn't hire a
than that. We had also been told to expect tempsguide for the climb but were fortunate that
as low as zero degrees so were thankful that itMarcio, my guide friend, went with us to the
was warmer than normal. Helped by the cloudtrailhead and pointed out the route up to us.
cover it didn't get below 30 degrees, so we wereSteve's guide explained the route back down to
plenty warm in our 20 degree bags and mycamp. No need to hike down, just go over to the
cheap Wensel tent.dark gray sand slope and "ski" down that, lots of
After we got camp set up, Jason suggestedfun! We stopped at Steve's camp and left him
scouting out the trail to the summit, as wethere with his teammates who were packing up,
planned on leaving about 5:00 in the morning andand then continued on down. We made it down to
weren't sure if we could find it in the dark. Weour camp in about two hours; we would have
easily found the trail and hiked up about 20made it faster except we stopped to take a lot
minutes to another campsite; the people thereof pictures of our fun descent! After a simple
said they planned on starting for the summit atlunch (should have brought another package of
about 2:00 am. By the time we got back down tosoup), which finished all of our food except a little
our camp, the wind had died down and it felttrail mix, we broke camp and headed on down.
warmer, especially after hot chicken noodle soupThere was no rush because Lisa wasn't scheduled
with tuna, cheese and bread and some tea. I usedto meet us until 4:00 pm. We had expected on
my soda can stove, which worked fine, afterbeing at the summit about noon, instead we were
removing the windshield; I guess it needed a bitback at camp by 11:00 am. After a couple of final
more air at that elevation too. Our campsitephotos at the trailhead, we decided to walk down
neighbor, a Frenchman suffering from the altitudethe dirt road, getting almost to the highway
wasn't looking too good, we found out he didn'tbefore meeting Lisa and Marcio. That gave us
attempt the summit. We were still below theplenty of time to talk about our next adventure,
clouds so got a great view of Arequipa as theafter they finish their trip. Of course Chachani is
lights came on and the quarter moon illuminatedcalling our names, there are also two 6,000 meter
Misti above us. By 7:00 pm we were in ourmountain peaks on the way to Cotahuasi where I
sleeping bags, hoping to get a good night's sleeplive, Coropuna at 21,075 feet and Solimana at
before the 4:00 am alarm.19,985 feet. And then there is my plan for a two
Following a breakfast of instant oatmeal, we wereweek bike ride, all between 9,000 and 16,000
on the trail at 4:45 in the morning, climbing byfeet.
headlights, with very little trouble following the trail.Looking down on creation...
We could see the lights of other climbers, which